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#>H  4     1975 

■— 

.FEB  12  1997 
FEB  !  8  1997 

... . .  mftti 

Mtf 


30M- 10/73 


THE 


WINDOW  FLOWER  GARDEN. 


BY 

JULIUS  J.  HEINRICH 


HANDSOMELY    ILLUSTRATED. 


NEW   AND    ENLARGED    EDITION. 


NEW    YORK: 

O.  JUDD   CO.,  DAVID  W.  JUDD,  Pres't, 

751    BROADWAY. 

1887. 


Entered,  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1887,  by  the 

O.    JUDD    CO., 

In  the  Office  of  the  Librarian  of  Congress,  at  Washington. 


INTRODUCTION 


Probably  no  other  occupation  or  amusement  is  more 
innocent  in  itself,  or  more  devoid  of  injury  or  annoy- 
ance to  others,  than  the  cultivation  of  flowers.  It 
furnishes  abundant  recreation  to  those  in  health,  while 
to  the  invalid  it  affords  most  acceptable  and  interesting 
occupation. 

The  pleasures  arising  from  the  culture  of  flowers, 
are  harmless  and  pure  ;  the  production  of  a  new  tint,  a 
shade  of  color,  here  becomes  a  triumph.  It  may  be 
regarded  as  a  mere  chance,  but  it  comes  as  the  reward 
of  morning  and  evening  care,  of  daily  watchfulness. 
Flower  culture  as  a  pursuit,  excludes  none,  but  welcomes 
all — the  poor  as  well  as  the  rich.  It  affords  the  excitement 
of  competition,  but  the  contest  is  without  ill-will.  No 
other  pursuit  can  be  followed  with  equal  success  by  those 
who  live  in  the  country,  as  well  as  those  who  dwell  in 
cities,  and  success  attends  the  deserving  in  all  places  alike. 
There  can  be  no  surer  indications  of  a  happy  home,  than 
a  flower-decorated  window  or  a  neatly  kept  garden,  how- 
ever small  it  may  be. 

No  occupation  for  leisure  hours  so  brings  pleasure  with- 
out surfeit.  The  more  we  advance,  the  more  eager  we  be- 
come to  go  still  forward.      Nothing  so  entertains  and 


IV  IKTEODUCTIOK. 

instructs  the  minds  of  juveniles  as  the  cultivation  of 
flowers,  and  how  many  lessons  of  carefulness  and  in- 
dustry they  teach. 

Let  me  endeavor  then,  by  means  of  a  few  simple  direc- 
tions for  the  management  of  plants  and  flowers  in  the 
window  or  conservatory,  to  show  to  all  the  members  of 
the  family,  and  especially  the  children,  that  the  culti- 
vation of  flowers  is  not  difficult,  and  brings  more  real 
enjoyment  than  many  more  expensive  amusements. 

Intending  this  work  for  all,  including  children,  I  shall 
exclude,  so  far  as  possible,  the  technical  terms  used  in 
our  business,  and  endeavor  to  give  the  most  simple  di- 
rections in  a  manner  that  will  be  understood  by  all. 

Julius  J.  Heineich. 


CONTENTS. 


Introduction in 

Chapter   I. 
The  Soil 7 

Chapter   II. 
Pots 9 

Chapter   III. 
Saucers  for  Pot  Plants 12 

Chapter   IV. 
Pot-Mats 12 

Chapter   V. 
The  Location  of  the  Window 12 

Chapter   VI. 
Fitting  up  the  Window  for  Growing  Plants 13 

Chapter  VII. 
Building  a  Conservatory 22 

Chapter   VIII. 
Heating 24 

Chapter   IX. 
Heaters  for  Conservatories 24 

Chapter   X. 
Giving  Air. 27 

Chapter   XI. 
Temperature 28 

Chapter   Xn. 
Shades 29 

Chapter    XIII. 
Watering 29 

Chapter   XIV. 
Sprinkling  or  Syringing 30 

Chapter  XV. 
Insects 33 

Chapter   XVI. 
Pruning  or  Trimming 34 

Chapter   XVII. 
Training  and  Staking 35 

Chapter    XVHI. 
Treatment  of  Winter  Flowering  Plants 36 

Chapter   XIX. 

Potting 87 

5 


VI  CONTENTS. 

Chapter    XX. 
Treatment  of  Frozen  Plants 38 

Chapter   XXI. 
Increasing  Plants  by  Cuttings  or  Slips 39 

Chapter  XXII. 
How  to  Sow  Seeds 40 

Chapter  XXIII. 
Manures  and  Fertilizers 41 

Chapter  XXIV. 
Sun  and  Light 43 

Chapter  XXV. 
Watering-Pots 44 

Chapter  XXVI. 
Ferneries  or  Wardian  Cases 45 

Chapter  XXVII. 
Plant-Stands 48 

Chapter  XXVIII. 
Hanging-Baskets 51 

Chapter  XXIX. 
Treatment  of  Dutch.  Bulbs 53 

Chapter  XXX. 
List  of  Plants  for  the  Window  or  Room 60 

Chapter  XXXI. 
General  Rules  for  the  Culture  of  Window  Plants 62 

Chapter  XXXII. 
Short  Description  of  Winter  Flowering  Plants 63 

Chapter  XXXIU. 
Flowers  that  will  Grow  from  Seed 74 

Chapter  XXXIV. 
Lilies— Their  Cultivation 93 

Chapter  XXXV. 
Lily  of  the  Valley 109 

Chapter  XXXVI. 
The  Aquarium. --- 112 

Chapter  XXXVII. 

Implements --- 116 

Chapter  XXXVIII. 
The  Window  Garden  Out-Doors 118 

Chapter  XXXIX. 
Designs  Made  of  DrL  i  Everlasting  Flowers,  etc 119 


THE  WINDOW  FLOWER  GARDEN. 


CHAPTER   I. 

THE    SOIL. 


Plants  receive  their  nourishment  from  the  constituents 
of  the  soil  in  which  they  grow  ;  with  plants  in  pots,  it  is 
therefore  especially  necessary  to  have  the  soil  in  a  sweet 
and  rich  condition  before  using  it.  If  you  have  but  a 
few  plants  to  re-pot,  and  it  is  not  convenient  to  mix  your 
own  soil,  it  is  better  to  procure  potting  soil  from  some 
florist  near  at  hand.  Where  a  large  number  of  plants 
are  cultivated,  and  there  is  space  in  the  yard  or  garden 
in  which  to  mix  or  make  your  own  soil,  the  following 
directions  will  be  found  useful.  The  first  named  mix- 
ture is  the  one  used 
by  all  florists,  and  the 
best.  Cut  sods  in  some 
pasture-field  or  com- 
mon, from  two  to  three 
inches  thick,  of  any 
convenient  size,  and 
Fig.  l.— section  of  soil  heap.  lay  these  sods  in  alter- 

nate layers  with  good  cow  or  stable  manure.  Make 
alternate  layers  of  manure  and  of  sods  three  inches  thick, 
piling  one  upon  the  other,  until  you  have  a  heap  of  the 
shape  shown  in  figure  1,  of  course  the  size  will  vary  ac- 
cording to  the  quantity  of  soil  needed.  A  heap,  with  the 
base  measuring  three  feet  square  and  three  feet  high,  will 
7 

Library 
"»  n  Rtflt.ftColleare 


8  THE   WINDOW   FLOWER    GARDEN. 

give  about  three  barrels  of  soil.  At  the  top  of  the  heap, 
dig  a  hole  (A,  fig.  1),  about  10  or  12  inches  deep,  leaving 
enough  soil  on  the  sides  to  prevent  the  water  which  you 
may  need  to  put  in,  from  running  out.  Make  this  heap 
early  in  the  spring,  and  let  it  rot  all  summer.  If  the 
season  is  very  dry,  fill  the  hole  on  top,  with  water,  once 
or  twice  a  month,  so  that  it  may  be  well  decomposed 
before  it  is  needed  for  use.  Into  this  excavation  at 
the  top  of  the  heap,  may  be  thrown  all  the  slop- water 
from  the  house.  This  will  make  the  soil  rich  and 
mellow ;  much  useful  fertilizing  matter  is  thrown 
away  in  slop- water.  When  the  soil  is  wanted  for  potting, 
mix  it  well,  and  rub  it  through  a  sieve,  which  may  be 
fine  or  coarse,  as  needed. 

Another  mixture  is  made  with  Bone  Dust,  or  Blood 
and  Bone  Fertilizer,  to  mix  with  the  soil,  instead 
of  manure.  To  one  part  of  Fertilizer,  add  8  to  10 
parts  of  soil,  mix  well,  and  let  it  lay  in  some  out 
of  the  way  corner  of  the  yard,  as  it  will  give  a  very 
strong  odor  for  a  little  time.  It  must  be  well  stirred 
once  a  week,  and  in  about  four  or  six  weeks  it  will  be 
ready  for  use.  I  find  this  much  better  than  mixing  it 
and  using  it  at  once.  These  fertilizers  are  all  more  or 
less  heating,  and  not  so  favorable  for  the  best  growth  of 
the  plants  ;  I  therefore  prefer  good  rotten  manure  to 
any  of  them.  Street  sweepings  or  sand  may  be  mixed 
with  the  soil  as  needed  for  such  plants  as  Ferns,  etc.  It 
makes  the  soil  lighter  to  mix  with  it  one- sixth  of  its 
bulk  of  sand  or  street  sweepings,  as  may  be  needed. 


pots.  y 

CHAPTER    II. 

POTS. 

But  very  little  has  been  written  as  to  the  kind  of  Pots 
best  for  the  successful  cultivation  of  plants.  This  being 
a  matter  of  great  importance,  I  shall  devote  a  chapter  to 
the  subject. 

After  years  of  trial  and  experience,  I  find  that  the 
best  pots  in  which  to  grow  plants,  are  the  common  clay 
pots  shown  in  figure  2.  Plants  do 
better  in  them  with  much  less  care, 
than  in  any  thing  else  yet  used,  for 
the  following  reasons  :  Those  accus- 
tomed to  grow  plants  in  pots,  will 
have  noticed  that  the  sides  of  the 
clay  pots  are  always  moist,  and 
often  covered  with  a  greenish,  slimy 

Kg.  2.-FLOWEB  POT.      gllbstance>      rrhQ  cauge  of  fl^  ^  ^ 

the  surplus  water  arising  from  watering  the  plants,  finds 
the  sides  of  the  pots  the  quickest  outlet.  When  there  is 
too  much  water  for  the  sides  to  let  out,  it  runs  into  the 
saucer,  if  one  is  provided  to  catch  the  water.  This  side 
drainage  is  very  essential,  as  it  prevents  the  soil  from 
becoming  sour,  which  it  is  apt  to  do  if  in  a  glazed  or 
painted  pot  ;  such  a  pot  allows  no  air  to  penetrate  to  the 
interior.  When  the  soil  once  gets  sour  from  stagnant 
water,  it  will  cause  the  roots  to  rot,  and  then  the  plant 
dies.  It  will  readily  be  seen  that  the  side  drainage  is  of 
as  much  consequence  as  that  at  the  bottom  of  the  pot, 
and  for  this  reason,  glazed  or  painted  pots  will  be  found 
inferior  to  the  clay  pots,  as  they  have  all  the  pores  in 
their  sides  closed  with  paint,  etc.  "  Oh  "  some  one  may 
say,  "they  have  holes  in  the  bottom,"  but  the  thousands 
and  millions,  I  may  say,  of  little  holes  in  the  sides,  which 


10 


THE  WINDOW  FLOWER  GARDEN. 


you  can  not  see  with  the  naked  eye,  are  of  more  conse- 
quence than  the  single  large  one  in  the  bottom. 

.Fancy  pots  can  be  used  by  placing  small  pieces  of  char- 
coal in  the  bottom  of  the  pots  for  drainage.  In  this  way 
they  will  answer  as  well  as  the  clay  pots,  with  a  little 

care  in  watering.  They  can 
also  be  used  as  a  sort  of  pot 
cover,  and  thus  will  serve  as 
a  receptacle  for  the  surplus 
water,  by  potting  the  plants 
in  a  common  clay  pot,  select- 
ing one  which  will  fit  into 
the  fancy  pot,  provided  the 
latter  has  the  opening  in  the 
bottom  securely  corked. 

Next  to  the  clay  pot,  a  wood- 
en box  or  tub  is  best.  They 
have  a  little  side  drainage,  the 
wood  being  porous,  especially 
the  soft  kinds,  such  as  pine, 
etc.  ;  but  they  should  not  be 
painted  with  oil  paint,  as  this 
will  stop  up  the  pores.  Those 
determined  to  paint  them,  can 
get  the  dry  paint  and  mix  it 
with  turpentine  only,  and 
give  a  very  light  coating. 
The  best  way  is  to  use  a  Win- 
dow Pot  Fence,  figure  3,  or 
a  Pot  Cover,  figure  4,  for 
the  tubs.  The  pot  cover,  etc., 
are  shown  to  advantage  in 
figure  6.  Tin  or  other  kinds  of  metal  pots  or  pans  are 
also  not  desirable.  If  care  is  taken  in  watering,  and 
they  are  well  drained  in  the  bottom  with  broken  pots, 
and  placed  in  rooms  kept  very  warm,  they  may  do,  but 


POTS.  11 

you  will  find  it  tiresome  work,  and  will  very  soon  stop 
using  them. 

Before  closing  this  subject  on  pots,  I  wish  to  call  atten- 
tion to    decorating  clay  pots  with  plain  or    fancy  pot 
covers,  figure  4 ;  also  see  figure  6.    They  will  hide  the  pot 
and    give  it  a  very  neat    appearance, 
without  interfering  with  the  side  drain- 
age in  any  way.     These  covers  are  very 
ornamental,   are   finished  with  French 
Gilt,  Silver-Plated  or  China  nails,  and 
can  be  opened  or  closed,  to  fit  different 
sized  pots.     They  are  made  of  Black 
ig.   —pot  cover.    ^a|nu£  or  "\\rhitewood,  painted  green, 

red,  blue,  yellow,  etc.  Some  are  also  gilded  like  picture- 
frames,  and  others  have  gilt  and  green  bars.  They  can 
be  had  of  any  size,  from  4  to  8  inches  high. 

It  is  necessary  to  wash  the  sides  of  pots  every  three 
weeks  or  so,  as  they  need  it,  and  they  will  look  like  new. 
With  a  pot  cover  and  the  pot  kept  clean,  it  will  look  just 
as  nice  as  a  fancy  pot,  cost  much  less,  and  the  plants  are 
sure  to  be  healthy. 

Iron  Vases  are  employed  in  large  numbers.  "When  they 
are  used,  they  should  have  two  or  more  handfuls  of 
broken  clay  pots  in  the  bottom,  before  putting  in  the 
soil.  This  will  be  found  very  beneficial  for  drainage ; 
the  larger  the  vase,  the  more  broken  pots  will  be  needed. 
But  even  with  drainage  and  all  other  precautions,  care 
must  be  taken  not  to  water  too  much.  I  once  superin- 
tended an  establishment  where  we  had  six  vases  setting 
on  the  wall ;  one  was  cracked  from  the  top  two-thirds 
down,  the  rest  were  perfect.  The  plants  in  this  broken 
vase  did  better  than  any  of  the  others,  showing  the 
benefit  of  good  drainage.  Water  your  vases  well  only 
when  they  need  it. 


1^3  THE  WINDOW  FLOWER  GARDEN. 

CHAPTER  III. 

SAUCERS  FOR  POT  PLANTS. 

In  placing  plants  on  shelves,  stands,  tables,  etc.,  al- 
ways have  a  saucer  under  the  pot,  but  never  allow  it  to  get 
full  of  water,  else  the  soil  will  get  too  wet,  and  cause  the 
roots  to  rot.  If  your  room  is  kept  very  warm,  and  you 
can  not  keep  the  plant  from  wilting,  then  put  a  little 
water  in  the  saucer.  I  would  only  recommend  it  for 
such  plants  as  C alias,  Ferns,  etc.  The  saucer  is  to  catch 
the  surplus  water  that  would  otherwise  run  out  of  the 
pot,  and  soil  the  table  or  carpet. 


CHAPTER    IV 

POT-MATS. 


When  you  place  a  pot  of  flowers  on  a  finely-polished 
table,  that  is  liable  to  be  scratched,  always  have  a  Pot- 
mat  underneath  the  saucer.  In.  some  cases,  napkins, 
etc.,  are  used,  but  they  get  soiled,  and  these  mats  cost 
but  a  little  more  than  it  costs  to  wash  the  napkins. 
They  are  only  square  or  round  pieces  of  oil-cloth,  bound 
with  tape,  and  can  be  made  at  home  of  any  size  to  suit, 
or  they  may  be  bought  ready-made. 


CHAPTER  V. 

THE  LOCATION  OF  THE  WINDOW. 

This  is  no  doubt  of  great  importance,  and  when  a 
choice  of  windows  can  be  had,  take  one  facing  the  south, 
where  the  sunshine  may  fall  upon  the  plants  as  long 


FITTING  UP  THE  WINDOW  FOR  GROWING  PLANTS.      13 

as  possible.  Some  plants  need  all  the  sun  they  can  get, 
others  are  contented  with  a  little,  while  some  do  not  need 
any.  This  must  be  looked  after,  as  many  make  a  mis- 
take in  this  respect ;  that  is,  they  place  those  that  need 
a  great  deal  of  sun  in  the  shade,  while  those  that  need 
but  little  or  no  sun  they  place  in  direct  sunshine,  and 
consequently  make  a  failure,  for  which  they  very  often 
blame  others.  I  have  given  a  list  of  the  plants  that  will 
do  best  in  the  sun,  and  those  best  for  the  shady  window, 
in  Chapter  XXX,  page  G2. 


CHAPTER    VI. 

FITTING  UP  THE  WINDOW  FOR  GROWING  PLANTS. 

A  window  can  easily  be  fitted  up  to  receive  plants  after 
the  party  has  decided  what  he  would  like  to  have.  Let 
us  commence  with  the  cheapest,  and  go  up,  as  estimates 
can  be  given  from  a  few  cents  to  many  dollars.  First  is 
the  plain  board  shelf,  which  any  one  handy  about  the 
house  can  easily  put  up  for  a  few  cents,  either  with 
wooden  or  iron  brackets.  In  all  cases,  whether  the  shelf 
is  on  the  outside  or  inside  of  the  window,  let  it  set  at 
least  six  inches  below  the  edge  of  the  window  sill ;  this 
will  give  the  plants  all  the  benefit  of  the  sun,  and  also 
hide  the  pots  from  view.  Such  plants  as  are  in  small 
pots  can  be  easily  raised  by  setting  them  on  blocks  of 
wood.  If  it  is  decided  to  go  to  more  expense,  select  a 
Window  Pot  Fence,  fig.  3,  and  fasten  this  on  the  edge  of 
the  shelf.  It  is  better  to  use  window  boxes,  instead  of 
shelves,  out-doors,  and  set  the  pots  of  plants  in  them. 
Then  pack  moss  around  them,  to  prevent  them  from 
getting  dry  very  quickly,  as  will  very  often  be  the  case 
with  plants  that  are  set  on  shelves  outside  of  the  window 
in  summer  ;  for  in-doors  it  is  not  required. 


14  THE  WINDOW   FLOWER    GARDEN. 

After  the  shelf  is  put  up  for  the  outside  of  the  window, 
select  such  plants  as  may  be  fancied,  but  let  there  be  at 
least  two  pots  containing  climbers.  Or  sow  the  seeds 
of  some  climbers  in  two  pots,  and  set  one  at  each  end  of 
the  shelf,  and  run  a  few  strings  up  each  side  or  fasten 
two  extension  ivy  trellises,  one  on  each  side  as  in  figure 
6.  But  let  them  run  from  the  pots  on  the  shelf  to  the 
center  of  the  window,  or  on  each  side  ;  these  will  serve  for 
the  climbers  to  run  upon.  Then  select  some  plants  that 
will  droop  down  over  the  front  of  the  shelf,  and  cover  it 
up  so  as  to  form  a  green  curtain  ;  these  will  have  a  good 
chance  to  bloom,  as  the  sun  will  shine  on  them  all  day  if 
they  are  facing  the  south.  If  in  a  shady  situation,  select 
some  plants  that  will  droop  over  and  grow  in  the  shade, 
such  as  Lycopodiums,  Tradescantias,  etc. 

Pot  Brackets  come  next  on  the  list  if  a  little  more  money 
is  to  be  expended.  These  vary  in  price  from  $1.20  to 
$24.00  per  dozen.  In  fitting  up  a  window,  always  have 
a  tin-pan  or  oil-cloth  placed  in  front  of  the  window  on  the 
floor,  and  let  it  project  from  ten  to  fourteen  inches  beyond 
the  last  row  of  pots,  so  that  it  will  catch  all  the  water 
and  dirt  that  may  drop  from  the  plants,  and  thus  keep 
the  carpet  clean. 

In  figure  5  is  shown  one  of  the  cheapest  window  shelves 
extant.  The  ends  are  made  of  iron,  sides  and  bottom  two 
and  one  half  inch  Walnut,  and  Ash  slats  with  a  bead  run 
upon  the  edge.  Slats  are  sent  in  lengths,  and  can  be  cut 
to  fit  any  window.  It  is  but  a  moment's  work  to  attach 
this  shelf  to  the  window,  and  it  is  brought  just  at  the 
sill.  The  old  way,  with  a  bracket  below,  compelled  put- 
ting the  shelf  too  high  or  too  low.  The  front  slat  pre- 
vents the  pots  from  being  knocked  off  by  children  or  by 
the  wind.  It  can  be  attached  to  the  inside  or  outside  of 
your  window.  The  price  of  this  shelf  with  ends,  slats, 
two  single  cup  flower-pot  brackets,  all  complete,  is  $2.50. 
Shelf  alone,  $1.25.  Ends,  per  pair,  75c.  Slats,  per  set,  50c. 


FITTING  UP  THE  WINDOW  FOR  GROWING  PLANTS.      15 


The  cheapest  and  also  the  neatest  design  is  shown  in 
figure  6.  It  can  be  used  on  either  the  inside  or  outside 
of  the  window,  and  with  little  trouble  in  removing  it. 
These  goods  are  all  made  of  Black  Walnut,  handsomely 
finished,  and  fastened  with  fancy  nails.  They  open  and 
close  freely,  and  may  be  adjusted  to  fit  different  windows, 
pots,  shelves,  or  flower  stands.    A  (figure  6)  is  an  Exten- 


Hnflni 


Fig.  5.— WINDOW   SHELF. 

sion  Ivy  Trellis,  six  or  eight  inches  wide.  B  is  an  Adjust- 
able Flower-pot  Trellis,  C  is  an  Adjustable  Flower-pot 
Cover,  and  D  is  a  Window  Garden  Fence.  The  price  of 
this  design  complete  is  from  $4.00  upwards,  according 
to  size  of  trellises  A  and  B  and  number  of  Pot  Covers. 
Figure  7  is  a  very  cheap  but  still  a  very  neatly  arranged 
window.      This,  like  all  that  follow,  are  for  in-doors 


16 


THE    WINDOW    FLOWER    GARDEN. 


Fig.  6.— WINDOW  WITH  IVY  TRELLIS. 

only.  It  consists  merely  of  a  Plant  Stand  and  Hanging 
Basket,  made  of  wood  or  rustic  work.  Instead  of  the 
basket,  a  bird  cage  may  hang  in  its  place,  which  will  also 
look  very  neatly.     This  will  cost  from  $8.00  to  $15.00, 


FITTING  UP  THE  WINDOW  FOR  GROWING  PLANTS.      17 


according  to  the  size  of  Stand  and  Basket,  and  the  quali- 
ty of  the  plants  with  which  they  are  filled. 

Figure  8  represents  a  well-kept  Window  Garden,  that 
does  not  cost  much  to  fit  up,  exclusive  of  plants,  which 
can  be  raised  from  seeds,  cuttings,  or  may  be  bought  as 
desired.  The  two  Brackets,  for  three  pots  each,  cost 
$1.50  each,  and  the  Window  Shelf  (figure  5),  may  be 

used  also  ;  use  two  each 
or  more  of  Pot  Brackets. 
Figure  9  represents  a 
Bay  Window,  which  is 
fitted  up  as  a  Conserva- 
tory. It  contains  three 
Hanging  Baskets,  one 
at  each  window,  a  Bird 
Cage  in  the  center,  with 
a  one  Cup  Pot  Bracket 
between  the  windows, 
one  on  each  side,  and 
an  Iron  Vase  in  the  cen- 
ter. The  pots  on  the 
floor  are  in  zinc  pans. 
This  will  cost  about 
810.00.  More  brackets 
can  be  used  between  the 
windows  and  also  on 
the  sides.  The  whole 
will  cost  from  $12.00  to 
$15.00  without  plants. 
Figure  10,  is  a  Plant  Cabinet,  which  can  be  very  easily 
built  to  any  house,  as  it  is  simply  a  square  projecting 
window,  and  will  answer  instead  of  the  more  expen- 
sive Conservatory.  A  hot-air  pipe  can  be  run  from 
the  furnace  into  this  place,  if  the  house  is  heated  by  a 
furnace,  and  the  doors  are  closed  at  night.  Here  one  or 
more  hanging  baskets  can  be  used  on  the  side  and  between 


Fi^.  7.— WINDOW  WITH    PLANT-STAND 
AND  HANGING-BASKET. 


18 


THE   WINDOW   FLOWER    GARDEN. 


Fig.  9.— EAT  WINDOW  CONSERVATORY 


FITTING  UP  THE  WINDOW  FOR  GROWING  PLANTS.      19 


Fig.  10. — A  PLANT   CABINET. 

the  windows.  Or  a  solid 
bed  may  occupy  the 
whole  place,  the  plants 
being  set  out  in  the  soil 
instead  of  leaving  them 
in  pots,  or  they  may  be 
in  pots  as  preferred. 
The  large  growing  kinds 

■Kill'i|''liw       ougnt  to  be   P^ced  at 
HI    I IIIIJjB       the  back,  with  the  smaller 

"tr  H         m       one  ^acmS  *ne  window, 

wnr  11     *~l~S  Flower -pot   Brackets 

ilg.  11.— PLAIN  POT  BRACKET.  f. 

are  exceedingly  orna- 
mental for  the  window.  They  are  generally  very  strongly 
made  of  iron,  being  capable  of  holding  double  the  weight 


20 


THE   WINDOW   FLOWER    GARDEN. 


Fig.  12.— ORNAMENTED  POT  BRACKET. 


that  can  be  put  upon 
them,  and  they  are  very 
tastefully  bronzed.  The 
arms  of  either  the  single 
one  or  those  with  more 
arms  are  moveable,  so 
that  they  can  easily  be  FiS- 13.— bracket  with  arms. 
swung  out  of  the  way  of  curtains,  etc.  Figure  11  is  the 
cheapest  of  all  flower-pot  brackets  yet  made  ;  they  cost 
about  15  cents  each.  Then  they  run  up  with  one  or  more 
arms,  as  shown  in  figures  12  and  13  ;  these  cost  from  75 
cents  upwards,  the  price  being  according  to  style  and  finish. 
Window  Boxes  are  also  much  used  ;  they  can  be  made 
of  plain  boards  or  carved  wood  (figure  14).  These  boxes 
are  very  ornamental,  and  are  excellent  for  holding  pots 
of  plants,  which  is  much  better  than  planting  them  in 
the  soil,  as  when  a  plant  stops  blooming  it  can  easily  be 
replaced  with  another.  The  vacant  spaces  are  to  be  filled 
with  moss.     The  price  is  from  $4.50  to  18.50. 


FITTING  UP  THE  WINDOW  FOR  GROWING  PLANTS.      21 


Fig.  14.— SMALL,  WINDOW  BOX.  Fig    15. — LARGE  WINDOW  BOX. 


Fie:.  16.—  jardiniere. 


Fig.  17.— JARDINIERE. 


22         THE  WINDOW  FLOWER  GARDEN. 

Some  parties  may  not  desire  to  attend  to  a  number  of 
plants.  To  those  I  would  recommend  a  Jardiniere  with 
a  single  fine  specimen,  such  as  Dracaena,  as  shown  in 
figures  16  and  17.  A  good  many  more,  both  cheap  and 
expensive  designs,  could  be  enumerated,  but  with  these 
an  idea  may  be  readily  formed  of  the  styles  desired. 


OHAPTEK  VII. 

BUILDING  A  CONSERVATORY. 

I  wish  to  call  attention  to  the  Conservatory,  inasmuch 
as  you  will  find,  in  after  years,  that  this  is  a  very  important 
part  of  your  work.  Carpenters  or  builders  should  never 
build  a  Greenhouse  or  Conservatory  without  consulting 
an  experienced  florist,  no  more  than  they  should  think 
of  building  a  hospital  without  the  advice  of  a  physician. 
What  can  they  know  as  to  the  needs  and  requirements  of 
plants  ?  I  offer  some  advice  on  this  subject,  which  I 
think  will  be  found  useful  in  various  ways. 

See  to  it  that  the  windows  or  sashes  can  be  readily 
reached  to  give  air  without  difficulty.  Also  so  arrange 
things  that  you  need  not  knock  over  half  a  dozen  plants 
before  you  can  get  at  them,  and  likewise  see  that  the  sashes 
you  have  to  open  can  be  easily  worked.  The  top-airing 
is  preferable,  as  it  will  not  strike  the  plants  suddenly  on  a 
winter's  day.  The  heat  rises  to  the  top ;  for  this  reason 
the  "airing"  should  not  be  too  high,  when  not  much 
heat  can  be  spared.  When  there  is  plenty  of  heat  it  does 
not  matter  so  much. 

Always  have  the  house  face  the  south,  and  the  floor 
f  a  little  inclining, 

^x~i  so  that  the  water 
I — I       will    run    to   one 

Fig.  18.-SECTION  OF   FLOOR.  ^  ^  ft  smaller 

drain  shown  at  A,  figure  18.     In   this   W,  W,  are  the 


BUILDING    A    CONSERVATORY.  23 

walls.  F  is  the  floor,  from  which  the  water  will  lead  to 
a  tin  trough  sunk  in  the  floor.  This  saves  much  time 
in  mopping. 

A  porch  with  pillars  can  readily  be  converted  into 
a  Conservatory  by  simply  having  sashes  or  window  frames 
made  to  fit  between  the  pillars  or  posts,  and  fastened  with 
screws  or  hooks.  They  can  be  taken  down  in  the  sum- 
mer, to  allow  the  place  to  be  used  for  a  porch  again,  and 
stored  in  the  cellar  or  elsewhere  until  autumn.  This  will 
not  only  afford  a  neat  little  conservatory,  but  will  also 
help  to  keep  the  rooms  warm.  A  small  tight  coal  stove 
may  be  placed  in  it  to  heat  it,  or  have  a  pipe  run  from 
the  heater  if  there  is  one.  In  using  a  stave,  care  should 
be  taken  not  to  let  any  more  gas  escape  than  can  be  helped. 
Check  the  fire  in  the  day  time  if  it  is  too  warm,  but  do 
not  let  the  stove  door  be  open,  to  allow  gas  to  escape. 
Also  be  careful  with  the  moisture.  Place  a  pan  or  kettle 
on  the  stove  and  keep  it  constantly  supplied  with  water. 

Balconies  can  also  be  converted  into  small  conserva- 
tories by  simply  enclosing  them  with  sashes,  and  they 
may  be  heated  as  above.  It  is  rather  difficult  to  give 
plans  or  estimates  for  these,  unless  the  individual  place 
has  been  inspected.  When  so,  it  can  be  easily  decided 
what  it  is  best  to  do,  how  to  do  it,  and  what  it  will  cost. 
There  are  many  little  places,  which,  by  a  small  outlay, 
can  be  converted  into  a  conservatory  ;  in  fact,  a  whole 
room  can  be  so  constructed  as  to  be  used  for  a  conser- 
vatory if  desirable. 


24  THE   WINDOW   FLOWER    GARDEN. 

CHAPTER  VIII. 

HEATING. 

The  heating  arrangement  depends  altogether  upon 
how  the  house  or  room  is  heated.  Heating  can  not  be 
regulated  so  well  if  the  source  is  a  furnace  or  a  stove. 
If  a  stove  is  used,  always  keep  a  pan  of  water  on  it.  This 
is  beneficial  to  human  health  as  well  as  to  that  of  the 
plants.  At  night,  pull  down  the  shades,  and  cover  the 
tender  plants  in  cold  nights  with  newspaper  or  bags  made 
of  newspaper  to  fit  the  plants,  separate  or  in  pairs,  and 
try  to  keep  in  as  much  heat  as  possible.  Close  the  win- 
dows early  in  winter,  and  open  when  the  sun  is  shining 
on  the  glass  in  the  morning.  Do  not  give  the  plants  too 
much  heat  through  the  day  if  you  cannot  give  them  as 
much  as  ten  to  fifteen  degrees  less  at  night,  because  it  is 
at  night  that  they  are  frozen.  Therefore,  if  you  can, 
keep  the  fire  up  all  night.  Always  be  guided  by  a  ther- 
mometer, and  you  will  not  fail. 

The  heating  of  conservatories  is  especially  treated  in 
the  next  Chapter. 


CHAPTER  IX. 

HEATERS  FOR  CONSERVATORIES,  ETC. 

Hitching's  "  Patent  Base  Burning  Water  Heater,"  is 
a  very  complete  and  efficient  apparatus,  designed  ex- 
pressly for  heating  small  conservatories  and  plant  cabi- 
nets, such  as  are  frequently  erected  by  amateurs,  in  con- 
nection with  their  residences. 

The  heater  is  as  easily  managed,  and  with  as  little  care, 
as  an  ordinary  base-burning  stove,  and  may  be  left  with- 

Library 


HEATERS  FOR   CONSERVATORIES,    ETC. 


25 


out  attention  for  nine  or  ten  hours  during  severely  cold 
nights. 

Figure  19  represents  the  heater  with  the  water  pipes 
connected  at  the  left-hand  side.  Figure  20  is  a  sectional 
view  of  the  heater,  showing  the  water  spaces  around  the 
fire-chamber  and  ash-pit,  the  magazine  or  feeder  for  coal, 
and  the  sifting-grate,  doors,  etc.  It  may  be  placed  on 
the  floor  of  the  kitchen  or  basement  of  the  dwelling,  with 
a  smoke-pipe  to  the  chimney,  and  two  small  water-pipes 
leading  to  the  conservatory,  where  they  are  joined  to  the 
larger  heating  pipes  which  pass  round  the  conservatory. 


BASE-BURNER   HEATER. 


Fig.  20.—  SECTION  OF  HEATER. 


The  fire-chamber  is  surrounded  with  water,  as  is  also  the 
ash-pit.  This  economizes  the  heat  to  the  fullest  extent, 
and  admits  of  placing  the  heater  on  a  board  floor  with 
perfect  safety. 

The  price  of  the  heater  usually  varies  with  the  price 
of  iron,  but  the  average  may  be  taken  at  $35  for  the 
heater  alone,  the  piping  costing  extra.  By  sending  the 
size  of  the  conservatory  to  be  heated,  and  the  average  tem- 
perature desired,  with  the  location  and  a  small  sketch 
of  the  conservatory,  you  can  at  any  time  obtain  by  mail 
an  estimate  of  the  cost  of  heating,  fitting  up,  etc. 

Hitching's  "  Improved  Conical  Boilers"  are  recom- 
2 


26         THE  WINDOW  FLOWER  GARDEN. 

mended  for  simplicity  and  cheapness.  I  have  had  them 
in  charge  for  years,  and  always  found  them  the  best,  using 
less  coal  and  giving  more  heat  than  any  others.  The  boiler 
consists  of  two  conical  cylinders,  one  within  the  other, 
with  a  space  for  water  between  the  two.  The  inside  cone 
forms  the  fire-chamber,  and  reaches  nearly  to  the  top  of 
the  boiler,  with  an  outlet  to  the  smoke-pipe  or  chimney. 
There  is  also  a  flattened  cone  connected  with  the  crown  of 
the  chamber,  and  extending  down  to  within  a  few  inches 
of  the  fire,  and  there  connecting  at  the  side  of  the  cham- 
ber with  a  pipe  for  the  passage  of  the  water.  The  water 
enters  through  the  lower  pipe  at  the  back  part  of  the 
boiler,  and  is  distributed  through  the  space  surrounding 
the  fire-chamber,  and  through  the  flattened  cone.  As  it 
becomes  heated,  it  rises  and  flows  out  of  the  pipe  at  the 
top.  The  inside  cone  or  fire-chamber  offers  a  large 
amount  of  surface,  which  is  exposed  to  the  direct  action 
of  the  heat  from  the  fire.  The  flattened  cone  serves  also 
to  increase  the  surface  for  the  fire  to  act  on,  and,  by  its 
peculiar  shape,  divides  the  volume  of  flames  and  hot  gas, 
and  causes  them  to  strike  with  force  against  the  surface 
of  the  chamber,  without  shielding  any  part  from  the 
direct  radiated  heat  of  the  fire. 

There  are  several  makers  who  have  adopted  the  princi- 
ple upon  which  these  boilers  are  constructed,  and  have 
made  some  trifling  change  in  the  shape  and  in  the  arrange- 
ment of  the  interior  surface,  which  they  claim  to  be  im- 
provements ;  but  there  are  none  that  will  give  more  heat 
for  a  given  quantity  of  coal.  The  price  of  a  small  size 
boiler  is  about  $32.00. 


GIVING   AIR.  27 

CHAPTER  X. 

GIVING  AIR. 

Plants  require  fresh  air;  therefore  give  it  to  them  on 
every  fine  sunny  and  warm  day  ;  it  need  not  be  a  hot  one, 
but  be  sure  to  select  a  good  warm  day,  and  give  them  all 
the  fresh  air  possible.  If  the  weather  is  very  cold,  say 
below  32°,  only  open  the  window  a  very  little  (32°  is  the 
freezing  point,  but  it  seldom  freezes  much  until  it  is  2& 
or  30°)  and  but  a  short  time.  Pull  down  the  upper  win- 
dow or  sash  so  that  the  cold  air  does  not  strike  the  plants 
too  suddenly.  When  the  outside  temperature  is  about 
35°  there  need  be  no  fear,  as  this  will  not  hurt  them  ; 
but  keep  a  careful  watch,  and  when  it  falls  a  few  degrees, 
close  up  gradual^. 

This  airing  gives  the  plants  a  healthy  and  vigorous 
growth,  also  a  good  color,  while  those  that  have  no  fresh 
air,  although  they  have  all  the  other  care  possible,  will 
still  be  of  slender,  soft  growth,  not  unlike  many  of  the 
children  raised  in  our  fashionable  homes.  If  the  people 
in  this  and  other  large  cities  would  but  open  their  win- 
dows often  er,  they  would  be  much  healthier,  stronger, 
and  need  the  doctor  less, — although  some  people  regard 
a  healthy,  robust  person  as  not  fashionable,  but  rude  and 
vulgar.  Airing  holds  good  with  plants  as  well  as  with 
people  ;  so  does  sprinkling,  which  is  only  washing  ;  re- 
potting, which  is  feeding  ;  these  three,  together  with 
watering,  are  the  principal  operations  of  floriculture 
which  ought  to  be  carefully  studied. 


28         THE  WINDOW  FLOWER  GARDEN. 


CHAPTER  XL 

TEMPERATURE. 

The  Temperature  at  which  to  keep  the  room  will  have 
to  be  governed  by  the  kind  of  plants  under  cultivation. 
The  list  of  plants  given  in  a  later  Chapter  has  the  number 
of  degrees  they  require,  marked  in  the  last  row.  If  there 
are  more  or  less  of  all  kinds,  keep  the  temperature  as  near 
to  an  average  as  possible.  Some  are  hardy,  others  half- 
hardy,  and  others  tender.  The  best  plan  is  to  place  the 
thermometer  in  the  window  or  conservatory,  and  see  what 
part  of  it  is  the  coolest;  then  place  the  hardy  plants  there. 
They  will  do  much  better  than  if  set  in  a  warm  place. 
The  half-hardy  ones  are  those  that  need  a  little  more  heat 
than  the  others,  but  not  as  much  as  the  tender  varieties, 
and  should  therefore  be  placed  in  a  little  warmer  part. 
Tender  plants  are  those  with  which  amateurs  have  the 
most  trouble.  They  must  be  kept  in  the  warmest  part 
of  the  room  or  window,  but  still  where  they  can  get  the 
sun  and  light;  otherwise  there  will  be  trouble  with  them. 
Begonias,  etc.,  belong  to  this  list. 

Try  and  keep  the  temperature  of  the  room  as  near  40° 
as  may  be  at  night,  and  about  65°  in  the  day ;  if  it  is 
getting  much  warmer,  open  the  window  for  airing,  from 
above,  a  little.  Keep  the  thermometer  in  a  shady  place, 
so  as  to  get  the  exact  temperature  of  the  room.  See  that 
the  plants  have  a  little  air  in  the  day.  The  object  is  to 
not  accustom  them  to  a  warm  temperature,  for  when  this 
is  once  commenced  you  will  have  to  keep  it  up,  and  if  you 
fail  to  keep  it  up,  you  may  be  sure  of  losing  your  plants 
the  first  cold  day.     It  is  the  sudden  change  from  70°  to 


SHADES. — WATERING.  29 

25°  or  30°,  which  kills  plants ;  therefore  accustom  the 
plants  to  a  cool  temperature,  and  if  a  very  cold  chilly 
night  should  come,  you  will  not  lose  so  many,  and  may 
be  not  any.  Therefore  be  cautious  in  the  beginning,  un- 
less you  have  the  facilities  for  giving  plenty  of  heat;  then 
let  them  have  from  65°  to  80°  in  the  day,  with  a  varia- 
tion of  10°  to  20°  lower  at  night. 


CHAPTER  XII. 

SHADES. 


Shades  are  very  necessary,  and  whenever  a  window  is 
fitted  up  for  plants,  shades  of  any  color  or  material  should 
be  used,  as  these  keep  out  a  great  deal  of  cold.  If  you 
have  a  great  many  seedlings  in  pots,  you  can  easily  shade 
them  from  the  hot  sun.  The  shades  also  become  useful 
when  caught  by  Jack  Frost,  as  you  can  keep  the  sun  and 
light  from  the  plants  for  a  day  or  so.  Be  sure  at  night 
to  draw  the  shades  down ;  it  helps  to  keep  out  the  cold. 
If  you  have  blinds,  close  them  up  tight  just  after 
dark,  or  earlier  if  you  can. 


CHAPTER  XIII. 

WATERING. 


"Watering  is  of  great  consequence  to  plants,  and  it 
should  be  looked  to  with  more  care  than  is  usual.  A 
great  many  ladies  kill  their  plants  by  extreme  kind- 
ness ;  that  is,  they  keep  on  feeding  them  until  the  plants 


30  THE   WINDOW    FLOWER    GARDEN. 

get  too  much  water,  when  the  roots  rot  and  the  plants 
die.  Then  they  come  with  a  sad  story  and  wish  to 
know  who  is  to  blame  for  this,  insisting  that  they 
have  done  all  they  could  for  their  plants — probably  too 
much. 

The  time  to  water  and  quantity  needed  can  be  readily 
determined.  Stir  the  soil  in  the  pot  with  your  finger,  and 
if  the  soil  is  dry,  of  a  whitish  color  and  dusty,  it  needs 
watering  ;  if  black  or  dark  colored  and  sticky,  it  does  not 
need  watering.  If  very  dry,  fill  the  pot  as  full  as  you 
can,  but  then  do  not  water  again  until  it  is  again  dry. 
This  watering  may  last  an  hour,  a  day,  or  a  week  ;  it  de- 
pends upon  the  temperature  of  the  room.  The  warmer 
the  room,  the  quicker  the  soil  gets  dry  in  the  pot  and  of 
course  the  oftener  it  must  be  watered,  and  vice  versa. 
But  nevertheless  the  plants  must  be  looked  after  every 
day,  to  see  if  watering  is  needed  ;  but  never  give  water  if 
it  is  not  required. 


CHAPTER    XIV. 

SPRINKLING  OR  STRINGING. 

Plants  which  are  syringed  with  clear  water  do  much 
better  than  those  which  are  not.  I  wish  the  reader, 
therefore,  to  pay  particular  attention  to  this.  It  should 
be  done  according  to  the  temperature  of  the  room.  In 
very  warm  rooms  sprinkling  may  be  done  daily  ;  but 
where  the  room  is  not  very  warm,  every  other  day  will  do. 
Various  reasons  for  doing  it  can  be  assigned. 

If  the  leaves  of  the  plants  are  examined  through  a 
microscope,  it  will  be  seen  that  they  are  full  of  little 
holes  or  pores.     Through  these  they  inhale  fresh  air,  or, 


SPRINKLING   OR  STRINGING. 


31 


in  other  words,  breathe.  If  the  dust  settles  on  the  leaves, 
these  little  holes  are  stopped  up  or  closed,  and  the  plants 
will  not  live  in  this  state  very  lopg.  The  object  in  syring- 
ing is  simply  to  wash  off  this  dust,  it  being  otherwise  a 

very  long  and  te- 
dious undertaking 
to  cleanse  each  leaf 
with  a  sponge  or 
cloth.  We  use  a 
Brass  Syringe  or 
one  of  the  Elastic 
Plant  Sprinklers. 
For  a  conservato- 
ry, a  Rubber-hose, 
with  a  fine  rose 
nozzle  on  the  end, 
is  best.  It  depends 
upon  the  number 
of  plants  to  be  at- 
Fig.  21.— elastic  plant  sprinkler.         tended    to.       The 

Elastic  Plant  Sprinkler  (figure  21)  is  a  very  useful  and 
cheap  article  for  a  window.  It  costs  by  mail  $1.50, 
and  it  can  be  used  to  sprinkle  clothes  also.  Those 
who  have  a  small  conservatory  will  find  a  Brass  Syringe 
(figure  22)  more  desirable. 
For  syringing  plants  a  Brass  Syringe  is  much  better  in 


Fig.  22.— BRASS   SYRINGE. 


many  ways.  With  it  you  can  throw  the  water  upon 
the  under  side  of  the  leaves  very  easily,  which  can  not 
be  done  by  using  the  Rubber-sprinkler ;  you  will  very 
often  need  to  sprinkle  the   plants  that   are  setting  on 


32 


THE  WINDOW  FLOWER  GARDEN. 


the  outside  of   windows ;  as  the  dust  from  the  street 
very  soon  covers  them,  the  Brass  Syringe  will  be  found 

much  the  best 
for  this  pur- 
pose.      The 

Fig.  23.-PABLOR  SYRINGE.  litt je     B  r  a  S  S 

Parlor  Syringe,  shown  in  figure  23,  which  sells  at  $1.50, 
will  be  found  very  convenient  for  the  service  required. 

The  Fountain  Pump,  represented  in  figure  24,  is  best 
suited  for  a  larger  conservatory.  If  there  is  a  Hydrant  in 
the  conservatory,  or  near  by,  a  rubber  hose  will  be  found 
the  quickest  means  of  doing  the  work.  There  is  still 
another  advantage  in  sprinkling.  The  eggs  of  insects  on 
the  leaves  are  washed  off  as  fast  as  they  are  laid,  and  thus 
no  chance  is  given  them  to  hatch.  This  is  a  very  impor- 
tant matter,  because  many  complain  that  their  house 


Fig.  24. — FOUNTAIN  PUMP. 

plants  are  full  of  insects.  "An  ounce  of  prevention  is 
worth  a  pound  of  cure."  I  therefore  give  the  above  as  a 
method  of  getting  rid  of  insects,  and  also  of  keeping  them 
down,  but  if  they  are  too  large,  or  have  got  the  advan- 
tage of  yon,  you  must  smoke  them.  See  Chapter  on 
Insects . 

The  way  to  sprinkle  is  easily  learned.  If  the  window 
is  so  fitted  as  to  catch  the  water  that  may  drip  from  the 
plants,  you  need  not  move  them,  but  if  not,  place  them 
in  a  bath-tub,  a  sink,  or  any  vessel  conveniently  at  hand, 
and  give  them  a  good  sprinkling  all  over  the  leaves  and 


INSECTS.  33 

flowers.  Do  not  think  you  will  hurt  them  with  the  force 
of  the  water  ;  the  stronger  the  better  will  it  wash  off  all 
the  dust.  But  before  sprinkling,  see  if  they  need  water- 
ing. (See  Chapter  XIII. )  If  they  are  very  dry,  water 
them  before  syringing.  If  you  use  a  tablespoonful  of 
Water  of  Ammonia  (Hartshorn)  to  a  gallon  of  water  to 
syringe  with,  it  will  be  found  still  more  beneficial. 


CHAPTER  XV. 


INSECTS. 

If  the  plants  are  kept  clean  and  well  syringed,  you  will 
be  but  little  troubled  with  insects  of  any  kind.  Should 
they  get  the  better  of  you,  the  best  remedy  is  Soluble 
Fir  Tree  Oil  Insecticide,  which  is  the  most  effective, 
and  is  easily  applied  with  an  atomizer.  For  Green  Fly, 
Red  Spider,  Scales,  as  well  as  Mealy  Bug,  this  I  find  the 
best  insecticide  that  I  have  tried.  It  will  show  its  effects 
after  only  one  application.  It  will  not  injure  the  most 
delicate  plant,  when  carefully  used,  nor  will  it  injure  the 
finest  fabric  of  any  kind,  and  is  perfectly  harmless  to  the 
hands  or  person.  For  these  reasons  it  has  no  equal,  in 
my  experience,  for  protecting  plants  from  destruction  by 
insects  in  the  room  or  window,  and  is  more  effective  than 
any  preparation  of  which  I  have  any  knowledge.  It  is  put 
up  in  small  bottles  for  twenty-five  and  fifty  cents  each. 

Directions. — Apply  only  evenings.  Use  soft  or  rain 
water  only  with  the  oil,  in  wood,  tin  or  earthen  vessels. 
Galvanized  iron  vessels  must  not  be  used.  To  make  a 
cleaning  solution  for  washing  or  syringing  purposes,  use 
one  teaspoonfnl  to  one  quart  of  water.  For  Green  and 
Black  Fly,  Thrip,  "American  Blight,"  or  Wooly  Aphis, 
one  teaspoonful  to  one  pint  of  water.  For  Caterpillars 
and  Red  Spider,  one  tablespoonful  of  oil  to  one  pint  of 
water.     For  Mealy  Bug,   Brown  and  White  Scale,  two 


34 


THE  WINDOW  FLOWER   GARDEN". 


tablespoonfuls  of  oil  to  one  pint  of  water.  For  Mildew 
and  Blight  on  Fruit  or  Foliage,  one  tablespoonful  of  oil 
to  one  pint  of  water.  In  the  above  cases,  apply  with 
syringe  or  atomizer,  well  under  the  leaves.  For  Ants, 
Grubs,  Worms,  Lice,  etc.,  in  the  soil,  one  tea-spoonful 
of  oil  to  one  pint  of  water ;  drench  the  soil  with  clean 
water  ten  minutes  afterwards. 


CHAPTER  XVI. 


PRUNING  OR  TRIMMING. 

Prunning  is  very  much  needed  in  the  cultivation  of 
plants.  If  the  plants  are  too  tall  or  spindling,  and  you 
wish  to  have  them  dwarf  and  bushy, 
cut  off  the  crown  or  center  stalk 
(figure  25)  as  low  as  you  wish 
to  have  the  plant.  This  will  force 
the  plant  to  start  or  send  out  new 
branches  from  the  sides  of  the  old 


Fig.  26.— PRUNING 


Fig.  25. — WHEN  TO  PRUNE. 


Fig.  27.— PRUNING  KNIFE. 


stalk.  If  you  wish  them  to  grow  taller,  cut  off  the  lower 
branches  (B,  B,  B,  B,  figure  25,)  and  leave  the  center 
stalk  to  stand  ;  this  will  force  it  up.  Out  off  all  dead  or 
dried  branches,  and  see  that  all  the  withered  leaves  are 
removed,  and  especially  withered  flowers.      By  keeping 


TRAINING   AND    STAKING.  35 

the  withered   or  faded  flowers  cut  off,  the  plant  will 
bloom  more  freely. 

A  common  scissors  or  a  pruning  knife  can  be  used,  but 
for  larger   plants  use  the   Pruning   Shears  (figure  26) 
Those  who  use  a  knife  in  preference  to  the  shears,  will 
find  one  of  a  practicable  shape  represented  in  figure  27. 


CHAPTER  XVII. 

TRAINING  AND  STAKING. 


It  is  necessary  that  climbing  plants  should  have 
some  kind  of  a  Trellis  to  run  upon  ;  they  can  be  allowed 
to  run  up  a  string.  Some  home-made  trellises  may  be 
used,  or  ornamental  shaped  trellises  may  be  bought  very 
cneap. 

Figure  28  represents  an  Expanding  Ivy  Trellis,  which 


Fig.  28.—  EXPANDING  IVY  teellis. 

can  be  used  as  an  upright  trellis  or  in  the  form  of  an  arch 
over  a  door  or  window,  as  shown  in  figure  6,  A.  Two  or 
more  trellises  can  be  readily  joined  together  to  form  a 
larger  arch,  suitable  for  a  bay-window.  They  can  be  ex- 
tended to  suit  the  length  of  the  vine,  or  its  shape.  Fig- 
ure 29  is  an  Adjustable  Flower-pot  Trellis.  This  can  be 
opened  more  or  less,  thus  making  it  broader,  or  closed, 
making  it  more  upright  and  narrow.  It  is  much 
handsomer  and  more  desirable  than  the  ordinary  station- 
ary ones. 


36 


THE   WINDOW   FLOWER    GARDEN". 


Staking  is  quite  different  from  training.  By  this  term 
we  mean  running  a  straight,  neat  stick  down  the  center  of 
the  pot  and  fastening  the  plants  to 
it  with  some  cord,  so  as  to  keep 
them  straight  and  prevent  them 
from  falling  to  one  side  or  the 
other.  Tie  plants  up  straight  in 
the  beginning,  because  when 
crooked  they  present  a  very  bad 
appearance.  Stakes  are  very 
much  needed  for  such  plants  as 
Carnations,  because  they  hold  up 
the  large  cluster  of  flowers  and 
will  prevent  the  weight  of  the 
water,  when  syringed,  from  break- 
ing them  off.    You  can  make  the 

Fig".  29.— ADJUSTABLE  POT  & 

trellis.  stakes  yourself  and  pamt  them^ 

or  buy  them  all  ready  made  for  a  few  cents  each. 


CHAPTER  XVIII. 


TREATMENT  OF  WINTER  FLOWERING  PLANTS. 

Plants  intended  to  grow  through  the  summer,  to  be 
removed  to  the  Window  or  Conservatory  in  the  winter, 
must  not  be  planted  in  the  garden  beds  in  the  spring  or 
summer.  If  they  are  planted  in  the  ground  and  taken 
up  in  the  fall  and  potted  for  winter  use,  you  will  find 
that  the  leaves  of  the  plant  will  drop  off  more  or  less, 
and  in  a  few  weeks  there  will  be  only  the  stalks  left.  It 
"will  be  some  time,  and  in  fact  nearly  all  winter,  before 
they  will  recover.  To  prevent  this,  pot  the  plants  in  as 
small  a  pot  as  you  can  possibly  get  the  plant  without 
crushing  the  roots,  and  plunge  or  bury  the  pot  in  the 
garden  border  or  bed  up  to  the  rim,  as  shown  in  figure  30. 


POTTING. 


37 


Be  careful  not  to  fill  the  pot  with  soil  when  plunged,  be- 
cause the  plants  must  be  watered  as  well  as  if  on  a  stand  ; 
but  by  plunging  they  will  require  less  water,  and  it  is  for 
this  reason  that  they  are  so  treated. 
Through  the  summer  they  must  be 
taken  up  about  every  five  or  eight 
weeks,  according  to  their  growth, 
and  be  re-potted  in  a  pot  one  inch 
or  so  larger,  in  order  to  give  the 
roots,  which  are  formed  through 
the  summer,  more  room,  and  also 
to  give  the  plant  fresh  nourish- 
ment. This  re-potting  is  much 
better  than  watering  with  Guano 
Water,  because  guano  is  a  very 
heating  fertilizer,  and  very  dangerous  ;  it  may  destroy 
more  plants  in  a-  few  hours,  than  weeks  or  even  months 
can  replace.  Bone  Dust  and  Blood  and  Bone  Fertilizers 
are  not  so  destructive;  but  the  best  treatment  is  re-potting, 
which  can  be  done  in  the  winter  as  well  as  in  the  summer. 


Fig.  30.— PLUNGING  A  POT. 


CHAPTER  XIX. 


POTTING. 


In  potting  plants,  take  care  to  set  the  plant  in  the 
center  of  the  pot ;  it  looks  very  badly  to  see  a  plant  at 
one  side.  Fill  the  pot  within  half  to  one  inch  of  the  top, 
so  as  leave  room  for  watering.  By  no  means  pile  the 
soil  up  in  the  pot,  so  as  to  cause  the  water  to  run  off 
instead  of  soaking  in.  For  the  larger  plants,  leave  more 
room  for  holding  water.  Press  the  soil  close  to  the  roots 
to  leave  no  vacant  space  in  the  ball  of  soil,  and  let  it  be 
firm  to  the  roots. 

In  potting  cuttings,   or  small  seedlings,  use  2Y4-inch 


38         THE  WINDOW  FLOWER  GARDEN. 

pots ;  have  your  soil  sifted  through  a  fine  sieve  and 
well  mixed  as  needed.  Fill  the  pot  full  of  soil ;  run  the 
first  finger  into  the  center,  making  a  hole  large  enough  to 
readily  admit  the  roots,  then  press  the  soil  close  to  the 
plant  with  your  two  thumbs,  and  give  a  gentle  tap  on  the 
table  or  bench  to  level  the  soil,  and  the  work  is  done. 
With  small  seedlings  or  cuttings,  shade  from  the  sun 
until  they  have  rooted,  and  water  with  a  fine  rose. 


CHAPTER  XX. 

TREATMENT  OF  FROZEN  PLANTS. 

It  sometimes  happens  that  the  temperature  out  doors 
changes  suddenly  and  blows  up  very  cold.  If  you  have 
not  enough  heat  to  meet  the  emergency,  some  of  the 
tender  plants  may  be  frozen.  I  treated  a  small  conser- 
vatory a  few  winters  past  in  this  way.  I  had  no  heat  in 
it  but  a  small  gas-stove  for  three  days  and  four  nights. 
The  boiler  in  the  house  that  kept  it  warm  leaked,  and 
the  men  were  so  long  in  mending  it  that,  to  help  out,  I 
drew  down  all  the  shades  and  kept  the  place  as  dark  as 
could  be  in  the  day.  In  the  morning  I  gave  all  the  plants 
a  slight  syringing  ;  this  was  kept  up  until  all  repairs  were 
made.  Then  a  little  heat  was  used  at  first,  slowly  in- 
creasing it  until  the  plants  were  used  to  it  again  ;  finally, 
I  gave  them  light  and  sun.  The  loss  from  about  $600 
worth  of  plants  was  only  $100  worth,  although  the  soil  in 
the  pots  was  all  frozen,  and  the  Begonias,  Bouvardias,  and 
Heliotropes  turned  black.  After  all  were  cut  down  to  about 
four  inches  from  the  pot,  they  commenced  to  throw  out 
new  shoots.  If  plants  get  frozen,  keep  them  from  the 
light  and  a  little  cool.  Syringe  them  well,  and  gradu- 
ally put  them  to  the  heat  and  light.  Cut  away  all 
the    black    or    frozen   stems,  so   as  to   force  them   to 


INCREASING    PLANTS   BY  CUTTINGS   OR  SLIPS.         39 

shoot  out  anew  from  fresh  eyes.  With  Begonia  Rex, 
and  similar  plants,  cut  away  all  the  leaves  and  water 
sparingly,  but  syringe  well. 


CHAPTER  XXL 

INCREASING  PLANTS  BY  CUTTINGS  OR  SLIPS. 

Make  a  box  about  five  inches  deep,  of  any  convenient 
size,  and  fill  it  with  sand.  Press  the  sand  down  firmly 
and  cut  lines  in  it  about  three  inches  apart.  Stick  the 
cuttings  in,  and  press  the  sand  closely  to  the  slip.  After 
this,  give  it  a  good  watering  through  a  fine  rose.  The 
cuttings  must  be  sprinkled  often  to  give  them  no  chance 
to  wilt.  The  best  plants  to  practice  upon  are  Nastur- 
tiums, because  they  root  easily.  Always  take  the  upper 
end  of  the  soft  wood  for  the  cuttings,  and  make  them  from 
two  to  three  inches  long.  Keep  them  shaded  from  the 
sun,  and  so  place  them  that  they  will  get  heat  from  be- 
low, and  very  little  or  none  from  above.  For  Geraniums., 
you  must  wait  for  a  few  weeks  before  they  root.  After 
you  have  put  them  in  the  sand  you  will  see  a  white  soft 
scum  or  skin  form  on  the  lower  end.  Now  take  them 
out  and  pot  them,  but  press  the  soil  very  close,  water 
well,  and  shade  them  until  they  have  rooted. 

Another  way  is  to  take  a  dish,  about  two  or  three 
inches  deep  ;  fill  it  about  half  or  two-thirds  full  of  sand, 
place  your  cuttings  in  it,  and  water  freely,  so  as  to  make 
it  very  wet,  like  mud.  It  must  always  be  kept  moist, 
and  do  not  let  the  sun  shine  upon  it. 

For  propagating  in  the  conservatory,  take  the  shady 
side  of  the  house,  boarding  up  the  front  so  that  the  heat 
can  be  kept  underneath  the  bench.  Fill  the  bench  about 
four  or  five  inches  deep  with  sand,  and  then  mark  out 
tne  rows  about  three  inches  apart.  Keep  the  upper  part 
of  the  place  as  cool  as  you  can,  but  do  not  let  it  freeze  by 


40  THE   WINDOW   FLOWER    GARDEN. 

any  means.  Water  with  a  fine  rose  watering-pot,  and 
shade  as  needed.  Some  take  a  cutting,  stick  an  oat  seed 
in  the  bottom,  and  then  pot  it. 


CHAPTEE  XXII. 

HOW  TO  SOW  SEEDS. 


Prepare  shallow  boxes,  about  three  or  four  inches  deep, 
and  of  any  length  or  width  you  like,  or  get  seed  pans 
made  of  clay,  but  boxes  are  just  as  good  and  cheaper. 
Take  good  rich  light  soil  and  leaf  mould,  mix  well  and  sift 
it  through  a  fine  sieve  with  a  x/16  of  an  inch  mesh.  Fill 
the  box  within  an  inch  of  the  top,  gently  pat  the  soil 
down  with  a  piece  of  board.  Now  sow  your  seed  evenly, 
take  a  fine  sieve  and  sift  just  enough  soil  over  the  seed 
to  cover  them ;  over  fine  seed  sift  but  very  little  soil, 
larger  seed  require  more.  Do  not  cover  too  deep,  or 
the  seed  will  rot  before  they  germinate.  Water  well 
through  a  very  fine  rose-pot,  and  keep  shaded  until  they 
commence  to  come  up,  then  give  them  plenty  of  sun. 
Shade  but  little  those  kinds  that  take  so  long  to  come  up, 
such  as  Salvias,  Primulas,  etc.,  and  place  the  box  or  pan 
in  a  warm  place.  When  they  are  up,  be  careful  not  to 
give  them  too  much  water,  and  do  not  keep  them  in  a 
moist  place,  or  they  will  damp  off,  and  you  will  lose  them 
all.  Give  them  a  little  air  on  warm  sunny  days  to  make 
strong,  healthy  plants.  When  the  seedlings  are  about 
two  inches  high,  pot  them  in  small  2Y4-inch  pots,  or 
"  dibble  "  them  in  a  flat  box,  about  one  and  a  half  or  two 
inches  apart  each  way.  After  potting,  water  well,  and 
keep  them  shaded,  until  they  have  taken  root ;  then  give 
them  plenty  of  sun  and  air  in  warm  days.  You  must  now 
look  after  the  re-potting  of  these  seedlings,  as  they  advance 
in  growth.     Do  not  "  jump  "  from  a  small  pot  to  a  larger 


MANURES  AND   FERTILIZERS.  41 

one  too  quickly  or  too  often.  From  21/4-inch  change  to 
3-inch  pots,  if  you  have  them.  If  you  have  none,  wait  a 
little,  and  then  use  larger  ones. 

Staking  and  training  must  now  be  looked  after.  If 
climbers  are  raised,  you  must  procure  trellises  (see  Chap- 
ter on  Training),  and  keep  them  running  up.  If  you 
have  nothing  else,  procure  sticks  and  tie  them  up  straight. 
If  not  done  well  now,  your  plants  will  be  crooked  as  long 
as  they  live. 

If  you  wish  them  to  grow  high,  you  have  but  to  cut 
away  the  lower  leaves,  leaving  the  center  stalk  and  crown 
until  they  have  reached  the  required  hight ;  then  cut  out 
the  crown,  and  the  plant  will  grow  bushy  ;  this  does  not 
apply  to  the  climbers.  The  Chapter  on  Pruning  treats 
more  especially  on  this  subject,  but  I  direct  attention  to 
it  now,  as  this  is  the  most  important  time. 


CHAPTEE  XXIII. 

MANURES  AND  FERTILIZERS. 

Experience  has  demonstrated  that  good,  well-rotted  cow 
manure  is,  in  all  cases,  the  best  for  house-plants.  Water 
can  be  placed  on  the  manure,  and  the  liquid  thus  obtained 
can  be  used  to  good  advantage  in  watering  the  plants. 
But  if  Fertilizers  are  used,  be  very  careful  to  apply  but  a 
little  at  a  time  as  here  directed,  and  then  use  them  very 
weak.  For  beds  or  soil,  always  mix  the  fertilizer  well  with 
sand  before  using.  In  watering  plants  with  a  liquid  fer- 
tilizer, be  sparing  and  do  not  use  it  too  frequently.  The 
best  way  to  apply  Peruvian  Guano  to  plants  in  pots  is, 
to  add  one  heaped  tablespoonful  of  pulverized  Guano 
to  a  gallon  of  water.    Use  about  one-sixth  of  a  pint  (equal 


42  THE   WINDOW    FLOWER    GARDEN. 

to  four  tablespoonfuls)  of  this  solution  to  quick-growing> 
succulent  plants,  in  about  5-inch  pots.  For  larger  pots 
apply  more,  and  for  smaller  ones  less,  and  not  oftener 
than  once  in  ten  to  fourteen  days.  The  water  should 
stand  in  contact  with  the  Guano  six  or  eight  hours,  occa- 
sionally stirring  it,  before  using.  It  should  be  applied 
at  evenings,  upon  the  soil  in  the  pot,  and  not  upon  the 
foilage,  which  should  not  be  spattered  with  the  solution. 

Soluble  Pacific  Guano  so  far  is  but  little  known  to 
our  florists  and  nurserymen.  Those  who  have  used  it, 
pronounce  it  the  best  fertilizer.  This  Guano  is  rich 
in  Bone  Phosphate  of  Lime  (in  such  condition  that 
a  large  proportion  is  immediately  soluble),  Ammonia 
and  Potash,  besides  other  ingredients  valuable  as  food  for 
plants.  It  is  slow  in  decomposing,  and  the  young,  tender 
fibres  of  plants  are  made  accustomed  by  degrees  to  this 
stimulant  of  growth ;  while  in  other  Guanos,  the  Am- 
monia exists  in  ready  formed  salts,  and  works  rapidly  to 
the  detriment  of  plants.  Soft  and  hard  wooded  plants, 
taken  from  the  propagating  bed,  should  not  receive  any 
fertilizing  stimulants  until  their  roots  are  thoroughly  es- 
tablished in  the  pots.  This  rule  holds  good  for  plants 
after  "shifting"  or  re-potting.  When  the  roots  are  in 
working  order,  commence  watering  with  the  Soluble 
Pacific  Guano,  in  the  following  proportions  : 

First  week,  4-oz.  to  the  gallon,  applied  once. 

Second  "  "  "  "  twice. 

Third     "  "  "  "         three  times. 

Fourth   "     6-oz.  to  the  gallon,  applied  twice. 

Fifth       "  "  "  "  " 

Sixth  week,  10-oz.  to  the  gallon,  applied  every  other  day. 

Seventh  and  eighth  weeks,  10-oz.  to  the  gallon,  applied 
once  each  day. 

Ninth  and  tenth  weeks,  16-oz.  to  the  gallon,  used 
freely  each  day.  As  the  plants  advance  in  vigor,  increase 
the  quantity  of  Guano. 


SUN   AND   LIGHT.  43 

G-uy's  "  Verdurine"  is  the  name  of  a  fertilizer  to  which 
I  have  given  a  fair  test  within  the  last  twelve  months. 
I  think  it  most  excellent  for  Flowering-plants,  those  in 
Hanging-Baskets,  etc.,  etc. 

I  planted  a  Tradescantia  this  spring  in  very  poor  soil 
in  a  rustic  log  ;  it  was  fed  with  this  Invigorator,  which 
caused  a  very  rapid  growth,  as  it  did  in  other  plants 
treated  in  like  manner.  This  u  Verdurine,"  unlike  other 
fertilizers,  is  free  from  all  disagreeable  odors.  It  gives  to 
plants  a  deep,  natural  tint,  putting  them  in  a  healthy  con- 
dition, and  avoiding  the  necessity  for  changing  the  soil. 
It  contains,  in  a  concentrated  form,  all  the  natural  con- 
stituents of  the  soil  which  enter  immediately  into  the 
growth  of  the  plants. 

The  method  of  using  it  is  very  simple  :  take  a  quart 
bottle,  fill  it  with  tepid  water,  and  add  a  teaspoonful  of 
the  powder.  Shake  well,  and  let  it  stand  a  day  or  two, 
then  sprinkle  over  the  surface  of  the  soil  enough  to  make 
it  moderately  moist.  Use  it  once  every  week,  so  that  the 
plants  may  have  a  regular  supply  of  nourishment.  It 
should  not  be  sprinkled  on  the  leaves  of  the  plant,  as 
it  is  absorbed  only  through  the  roots.  Do  not  use  too 
much  when  the  plants  are  resting.  More  may  be  applied 
to  plants  when  they  are  in  vigorous  growth  than  on  slow 
growing  ones. 


CHAPTER  XXIV. 

SUN  AND  LIGHT. 


As  a  general  thing,  plants  can  not  have  too  much  sun  ; 
most  of  them  may  have  all  they  can  get.  But  a  few, 
such  as  Lycopodiums,  etc.,  do  not  need  so  much ;  in- 
deed if  they  do  not  get  any,  no  harm  ensues.  I  have 
seen  fine  plants  of  this  kind  growing  under  the  benches 
of  the  greenhouse,  where  they  received  no  direct  sun, 


44         THE  WINDOW  FLOWER  GARDEN. 

and  bxit  little  fresh  air.  The  branches  and  leaves  of 
plants  kept  in  windows  naturally  turn  toward  the  sun 
and  light  and  thus  become  one-sided.  It  is  a  mistake  to 
endeavor  to  force  them  to  grow  otherwise  by  frequently 
turning  them,  as  in  the  continued  movement  of  the 
plants  to  follow  the  light  they  become  not  only  weak- 
ened, but  distorted  in  shape.  It  is  better,  therefore, 
when  plants  cannot  receive  a  vertical  light,  to  allow  them 
to  spread  out  as  inclined,  forming  one  good  face  or  tier 
of  healthy  foliage  toward  the  window  ;  to  raise  well- 
balanced  heads  under  such  circumstances  is  almost  out  of 
the  question.  Place  them  as  near  the  glass  as  possible  ; 
of  course  windows  having  a  southern  aspect  are  the  most 
desirable. 


CHAPTEE    XXV. 

WATERING  POTS. 

It  is  unimportant  as  to  the  style,  size,  or  material  Wa- 
tering Pots  are  made  of.  They  may  be  bought  ready 
made  in  any  tin  store,  or  they  may  be  made  to  order ; 
some  recommend  one,  others  another  kind.     A  common 

one  with  a  spout  and 
rose,  (as  represented  in 
figure  31,)  of  any  suit- 
able size,  is  as  good  as 
any.  If  only  a  few 
plants  are  to  be  water- 
ed, a  half-gallon  pot 
is   large   enough,   but 

Fig.  81.-WATBBIHG  POT.  ^  ^^  ^^  ft   ^^ 

one  will  be  required.  Be  careful  to  have  a  very  fine  rose 
to  water  seeds  and  seedlings  with,  as  a  coarse  one  will  be 
apt  to  wash  them  out ;  one  a  little  coarser  will  be  re- 
quired for  general  use.     The  pots  may  be  filled  without 


FERNERIES   OR   WARDIAN   CASES.  45 

the  rose  by  pouring  the  water  through  the  spout  until  the 
space  above  the  soil  is  full.  For  a  conservatory,  where 
you  have  to  reach  a  great  distance,  get  a  pot  made  with 
a  long  spout,  as  shown  in  fig.  31,  but  the  spout  should 
not  reach  more  than  two  inches  above  the  top  of  the 
pot.  The  rose  should  be  flat  on  top,  as  shown  in  the 
figure,  and  not  convex,  as  they  generally  are.  This 
gives  one  a  control  of  the  watering,  (only  sprinkling 
where  you  wish,)  while  with  a  convex  rose  the  water  is 
spread  out  like  a  fan. 

For  plants  in  pots  in  windows  it  is  well  to  pack  moss 
about  them.  The  moss  will  collect  all  the  water  which 
will  run  from  the  pots,  and  helps  to  retain  the  moisture. 
It  is,  therefore,  desirable  ior  use. 


CHAPTER    XXVI. 

FERNERIES  OR   WARDIAN   CASES. 

Ferneries  or  Wardian  Cases  are  used  for  growing  those 
plants  which  require  a  moist  atmosphere,  a  condition 
which  it  is  impossible  to  obtain  in  an  ordinary  room. 
The  styles  are  various,  and  they  are  made  of  various  ma- 
terials. Figure  32  represents  a  square  one,  made  of  iron, 
with  a  tin  or  zinc  pan.  The  lid  or  top  can  be  lifted  up 
to  let  in  fresh  air  if  required.  The  great  advantage  pos- 
sesssed  by  these  cases  is,  that  they  need  be  watered  but 
once  in  one  or  two  months,  as  the  moisture  which  settles 
on  the  glass  will  return  to  the  soil  again.  Figure  33  is 
one  made  of  clay  or  terra  cotta,  with  a  glass  bell-shaped 
shade  over  it ;  they  can  be  had  also  in  iron.  If  moisture 
collects  on  the  glass,  or  it  "  sweats"  too  much,  tilt  the 
shade  at  one  side,  and  support  it  so  as  to  hold  it  up  about 
an  inch.  Use  light  soil,  mostly  leaf  mould,  to  fill  it ; 
then  place  in  the  plants  as  taste  may  suggest,  but  do  not 


46 


THE  WINDOW  FLOWER  GARDEN. 


Fig.  32.— WARDIAN  CASE  OF  IKON, 

crowd  it  too  full.     After  putting  in  the  plants,  give  the 
soil  a  good  watering,  and  set  the  case  where  it  will  receive 


Fig.  33.— TERKA   COTTA  WAKDIAN   CASE. 


plenty  of  light,  but  no  sun.  As  occasion  requires,  take 
off  the  shade,  and  remove  all  decayed  leaves  ;  if  not  un- 
necessarily disturbed,  there  will  be  no  trouble. 


PLAKT-STAtfDS. 


4? 


Fig.  35.-   IRON   PLANT   STAND. 


48  THE   WINDOW    FLOWER    GARDEN. 

CHAPTEE    XXVII. 

PLANT-STANDS. 

Plant-stands  are  of  various  materials,  such  as  wood, 
iron,  wire,  willow-ware,  etc.  The  designs  are  also  nu- 
merous ;  only  a  few  are  given  here.  Figure  34  is  made 
of  wood ;  it  folds  together,  and  is  very  easily  shipped  ;  it 
is  a  very  neat  design,  and  much  used.  In  figure  35  is 
represented  one  made  of  iron,  which  can  also  be  folded 
together  for  shipping.  In  the  top  are  two  zinc  pans,  so 
that  one  can  be  filled  with  bulbs,  and  placed  in  the  cellar 

until  ready  to  be  brought  out. 
Plants  can  be  set  out  in  soil 
placed  in  one  of  the  pans,  or 
they  may  be  potted  and  set, 
(pots  and  all,)  in  the  pan,  with 
the  spaces  between  them  filled 
with  moss.  Treated  in  this 
manner,  they  can  be  easily 
moved  when  the  bulbs  are 
ready. 

Stands   made  of  willow  or 

Fig.   34.— POLDING  PLANT  STAND. 

rattan  (ng.  36)  are  very  or- 
namental, and  much  in  use  abroad.  In  some  cases  they 
harmonize  better  with  the  furniture,  and  by  many  they 
are  preferred.  It  is  best  to  fill  them  with  plants  in  pots, 
although  they  are  also  provided  with  a  zinc  pan.  New 
plants  can  be  easily  placed  in,  instead  of  the  old  ones,  if 
they  are  kept  in  pots.  Some  readers  may  fancy  a  rustic 
stand,  of  which  only  two  of  the  many  designs  now  made 
are  represented  in  figures  37  and  38  on  page  50.  The 
Eustic  Stands  are  much  used  in  rooms,  and  also  in  gar- 
dens on  the  lawns.  They  are  made  of  wooden  boxes, 
square,  round,  oval,  etc.,  with  Laurel  roots  and  other 


PLAtfT-STANDS. 


49 


materials  nailed  upon  the  outside,  with  the  nails  clinched 
on  the  inside,  so  that  the  rustic  work  can  not  come  off. 
Plants  prosper  very  well  in  them. 
The  Novelty  Eevolving  Flower  Stand  (fig.  39)  is  made 


Fig.  36.— STAND  OF  RATTAN  OB  WILLOW. 

of  wire,  and  is  very  strong,  though  light.     It  is  so  ad- 
justed that  it  will  not  tip  over  when  a  greater  weight  is 
placed  upon  one  side  than  on  the  other,  while  it  revolves 
3 


50 


THE  WINDOW  FLOWER  GARDEN. 


easily.  It  can  be  easily  and  perfectly  covered,  thus  avoid- 
ing the  removal  of  plants  when  sweeping.  It  may  be 
covered,  also,  to  prevent  the  chilling  of  the  plants  in  cold 
nights,  making  it  unnecessary  to  remove  the  stand  to  a 


Fig.  38. — RUSTIC  STAND.  Fig.  39.— NOVELTY  REVOLVING   STAND. 

warmer  part  of  the  room.  If  covered  with  cloth,  the 
plants  can  be  easily  smoked.  It  is  provided  with  an  oil- 
cloth rimmed  mat,  capable  of  holding  several  quarts  of 
water  ;  wetting  the  carpet  is  thus  prevented. 


HANGING   BASKETS.  51 


CHAPTER  XXVIII. 

HANGING    BASKETS. 

Of  all  Hanging  Baskets  yet  introduced,  the  Rustic 
Hanging  one,  figure  40,  has  been  the  most  successful 
in  every  respect.  It  is  the  one  most  in  use,  and  costs 
less  for  its  size  than  any  other.  In  filling  a  basket,  always 
place  some  large,  showy  plant  in  the  center,  such  as  Dra- 
csena,  Zonal  Geranium,  etc.  Arrange  some  climbing  plant 
at  each  handle,  with  trailing  plants  at  the  edge.  Do  not 
fill  them  too  full,  or  the  plants  will 
crowd  one  another,  and  some  will  die. 
The  Hanging  Flower-Pot  Stand, 
figure  41,  is  a  desirable  article,  inas- 
much as  ladies  complain  that  flower- 
pot stands  are  so  low,  they  must  be 
at  the  expense  of  a  table  to  put  them 
on,  in  order  to  raise  them  high 
enough  in  the  window  to  give  the 
plants  full  benefit  of  light  and  sun, 
and  to  make  the  window  look  well 
from  the  outside.  This  stand  may 
be  suspended  from  the  ceiling.  It  is 
Fig.  40.  rustic  basket,  easily  rotated,  and  there  is  no  table 
to  occupy  valuable  room.  The  ring  above,  is  made  of 
malleable  iron,  and  will  bear  a  great  weight.  This  stand, 
with  a  few  baskets,  will  fill  a  bay-window  beautifully. 
The  center  basin  is  of  clay,  glazed  on  the  inside,  and 
may  be  used  to  hold  a  fish-globe,  or  hanging  basket.  A 
similar  style  is  made  to  hold  more  pots  and  to  stand  on 
the  table  if  desired.     They  are  very  neatly  finished. 

The  Imitation  Log  Baskets,  figure  42,  are  made  of  the 
same  material  as  the  common  flower  pots,  and  painted  in 


52 


THE  WINDOW    FLOWER    GARDEN. 


imitation  of  a  log  ;  therefore  it  is  necessary  to  be  careful 
not  to  water  them  too  much. 

There  are  Hanging  Baskets  made  of  wire,  but  these 


Fig.  41.— HANGING  FLOWER-POT  STAND. 

must  be  first  lined  with  green  moss,  before  they  can  be 
used.  For  those  who  are  willing  to  take  this  trouble, 
they  are  very  useful  ;  be  careful  that  the  water,  in  wat- 


TREATMENT  OF  DUTCH  BULBS.  53 

tering,  does  not  run  through  upon  the  carpet.  There  are, 
also,  various  kinds  and  shapes  of  Terra  Cotta  Hanging 
Baskets,  too  numerous  to  mention  here.  They  are  all 
quite  good,  if  care  be  taken  not  to  water  too  excessively. 


Fig.  42.— LOG  BASKET. 

CHAPTER  XXIX. 

TREATMENT  OF  DUTCH  BULBS. 

Under  this  heading,  are  included  the  Hyacinth,  Tulip, 
Crocus,  Jonquils,  Narcissus,  Snowdrops,  and  various 
others  less  known,  but  very  pretty  kinds.  They  are  all 
imported  from  Holland  every  year,  it  being  the  only  place 
where  they  are  successfully  propagated  ;  and  thus  they 
derive  their  name,  Dutch  Bulbs.  The  Hyacinth,  the 
best  known,  will  first  be  treated  of. 

Hyacinthus. — The  Hyacinth,  fig.  43.  (In  mythology, 
a  beautiful  boy,  who,  after  being  killed,  was  transformed 
into  this  flower).     Nat.  Ord.  Liliaceae,  the  Lily  Family. 

Hyacinths  in  Pots. — Hyacinths  will  grow  in  almost 
any  light,  sandy  soil,  but  where  the  highest  cultivation 
is  aimed  at,  they  should  be  planted  in  a  mixture  composed 
of  one-half  decomposed  turfy  loam,  with  the  remainder 
of  equal  parts  of  well-rotted  manure  and  leaf  mould,  well 
mixed  together.  Use  6-inch  pots  for  a  single  bulb,  or  8- 
inch  pots  for  three  bulbs.  If  massing  is  desired,  use  larger 
pots.     Fill  the  pot  well  with  soil,  then  make  a  hole  with 


54  THE   WINDOW    PLOWER,    GARDEN. 

the  first  two  fingers  and  thumb ;  insert  the  bulb  in 
the  hole  thus  made,  covering  it  so  that  only  the  upper 
part  may  be  seen.  Press  the  soil  firmly,  then  give 
a  good  watering  so  as  to  settle  it  close  to  the  bulbs. 
Now  plunge  in  a  warm  garden  border,  four  inches  below 
the  surface,  or  place  them  in  a  cool  cellar,  and  in  six  weeks 
or  two  months,  take  out  and  bring  them  gradually  to 
light  and  heat.  In  whatever  way  Hyacinths  may  be 
grown,  to  insure  success,  the  flower,  or 
rather,  the  bulb  must  not  be  stimulated 
by  light  or  heat,  until  the  roots  are  well 
developed  in  the  pot  or  glass.  If  once 
brought  to  the  light,  water  them  freely, 
because  they  prefer  it,  but  not  exces- 
sively. By  stinting  them  in  water  while 
growing,  the  flowers  will  be  smaller  and 
less  brilliant  in  color.  If  potted  at  in- 
tervals of  a  week  or  two,  they  will  by 
this  means  give  a  succession  of  blooms 
for  months. 

Groiving  Hyacinths  in  Glasses. — In 
growing  Hyacinths  in  glasses,  let  the 
water  simply  touch  the  base  of  the  bulb, 
figure  44,  until  they  have  made  good 
roots,  then  allow  the  water  to  be  only 
half  an  inch  from  the  bulb.  Keep 
Fig.  43.— hyacinth,  them  in  a  cool,  dark  cellar  or  closet  for 
at  least  six  or  eight  weeks  after  putting  the  bulbs  in  the 
glasses,  and  remove  gradually  to  light  and  heat.  Hya- 
cinths started  in  pots  can  be  washed  clear  of  soil,  and 
transplanted  or  placed  in  glasses.  They  are  more  certain 
to  prosper  than  if  started  in  water,  and  should  some 
of  the  roots  be  lost  or  broken  in  changing,  it  will  be 
of  no  material  injury  to  them.  A  piece  of  charcoal 
in  the  glass,  keeps  the  water  sweet.  Change  it  every 
two   weeks,  using  it  not  too  cold.     Should  any  of  the 


TREATMENT  OF  DUTCH  BULBS. 


55 


roots  become  slimy,  wash  them  well  and  rinse  the  glass 
thoroughly.  The  single  varieties  are  the  best  for  glasses, 
and  are  more  effective  in  flowers. 

For  growing  in  glasses,  use  either  of  the  designs  shown 
in  figures  46,  47,  or  48  ;  only  select  dark  colored  glasses, 
because  they  are  the  best  for  the  roots,  as  they  keep  off 
the  sun  a  little  or  partially  shade  them. 

Hyacinths  Grown  in  Moss. — The  Hyacinth  is  capable  of 
being  cultivated  in  a  greater  number  of  ways  than  almost 
any  other  variety  of  flower.  It  will  grow  freely  in  almost 
any  medium  capable  of  retaining  moisture,  and  will  gen- 
erally produce  as  fine  spikes  of  blooms  when  grown  in 
sand,  moss,  charcoal-sif  tings,  or  water, 
as  when  planted  in  the  richest  com- 
post. Porcelain,  Terra  Cotta,  stone, 
china  vases,  glass  bowls  or  dishes,  in 
fact  anything  that  will  contain  moist- 
ure, may  be  used  to  advantage,  and 
with  gratifying  results.  Fill  the  vessel 
with  moss  or  sand  instead  of  soil,  upon 
which  arrange  the  bulbs  in  any  form 
your  taste  may  suggest.  Then  cover 
with  moss,  and  fill  it  in  between  the 
bulbs  also.  Now  water  well  and  place 
them  in  a  dark  cellar,  as  already  di- 
rected, for  six  or  eight  weeks.  When 
brought  to  the  light,  care  must  be 
taken  to  keep  the  moss  or  sand  con- 
stantly moist. 

In  figure  45  two  Hyacinths  are  seen 
growing,  one  up  into  the  air  in  the 
natural  way,  and  one  down  into  the 
water  m  the  lower  glass.  The  latter,  of  course,  appears 
magnified  by  the  glass  and  the  water.  They  are  easily 
grown  this  way,  and  are  something  quite  new  in  this 
country. 


Fig    44— HYACINTH 
IN  GLASS. 


50 


THE  WINDOW   FLOWER    GARDEN*. 


Take  the  upper  Bell  or  Cup  and  place  a  little  moss  at 
the  base  of  the  bell  to  keep  the  soil,  if  you  use  soil,  from 
falling  through  ;  unless  you  use  all  moss  or  cocoa  fibre, 
which  is  better.  Arrange  the  bulb  in  the  center,  close  to 
the  bottom,  of  course  with  the  base  of  the  bulb  upwards, 
and  then  fill  in  with  the  ingredients  you  use,  placing  the 

other  bulb  in  the  usual  way,  as 
in  ordinary  planting.  You  can 
then  place  them  in  the  dark  to 
root,  as  is  customary,  and  when 
they  are  sufficiently  developed 
the  upper  cup  can  be  placed  on 
the  vase,  which  is  filled  half- 
full  of  water,  until  the  lower 
stalk  is  3  or  4  inches  long.  Then 
fill  up  the  water  so  that  it  just 
touches  the  lower  sprout,  and 
the  one  grows  up  and  the  other 
down.  It  is  much  the  best  to 
use  bulbs  of  one  habit  as  near 
as  you  can,  as  sometimes  one 
gets  ahead  of  the  other, \  and 
spoils  the  appearance.  If  the 
water  gets  dirty  change  it ;  a 
little  charcoal  added  is  bene- 
ficial. The  bulbs  may  be  start- 
ed in  moss  in  boxes  or  pots,  and 
transferred  to  the  vase,  but  do 
not  try  to  force  them  by  putting 
them  to  the  light  before  they  are  well  rooted,  and  never 
let  the  water  in  the  lower  vase  get  too  warm,  or  it  will 
cause  the  flower  to  rot.  If  kept  in  a  cool  place  they 
do  much  better. 

The  Crocus  (a  name  adapted  from  Theophrastus). — 
Nat.  Ord.  IridacecB,  the  Iris  Family.  The  Crocus  (fig. 
49)  is  well  known  as  one  of  our  earliest  spring  flowers, 


45. — TWO  HYACINTHS  IN 
GLASS. 


TREATMENT  OF  DUTCH  BULBS. 


57 


producing  dense  masses  of  richly  colored  blossoms.  The 
more  thickly  they  are  planted,  the  greater  is  the  effect 
produced.     With  ordinary  care  the  Crocus  will  bloom  in 


Fig.  46. 


Fig.  47. 

HYACINTH  GLASSES. 


Fig.  48. 


any  sitting-room  window.     Use  good  rich  soil,  and  plant 
from  eight  to  ten  in  a  6-inch  pot.     Cover  an  inch  with 


Fig.  49.— crocuses.  Fig.  51. — hedgehog. 

soil,  and  water  well.  They  need  not  be  placed  in  the 
dark,  but  put  them  wherever  it  is  convenient  until  they 
begin   to  sprout.      Then  let  them  have  plenty  of   sun, 


58 


THE  WINDOW   FLOWER    GARDEN. 


but  not  so  much  water  as  Hyacinths.  They  can  be 
planted  on  the  edge  of  a  7-inch  pot  with  one  or  two 
Hyacinths  in  the  center.  They  can  also  be  grown  in  the 
Beehive  (figure  50),  or  the  Hedgehog  pot  (figure  51). 
Fill  the  lowest  row  of  holes  after  turning  it  up,  then  fill 
up  with  soil  to  the  next  row  of  holes  ;  then  another  row 
of  holes,  and  soil  again,  and  so  on,  until  full ;  lastly, 
cover  the  lower  part  with  moss.  Water  well,  and  treat 
as  above. 

Tulips.— The  Tulip— Tulipa— (figs.  52  and  53)— from 
its  Persian  name,  Thoulylan — Nat.  Ord.  Liliacece,  the 
Lily  Family.  For  the  orna- 
mentation of  the  conserva- 


Fig.  52. — tulip. 


Fig.  53.— PARBOT  TULIP. 


tory,  parlor,  or  sitting-room  during  the  winter  and  spring 
months,  the  Tulip  stands  unrivalled,  both  as  regards 
its  rich  and  various  colors,  easy  culture,  and  accommo- 
dating habits.  Like  the  Hyacinth,  it  will  thrive  in  al- 
most any  soil  and  situation,  and  under  almost  any  cir- 
cumstances, so  that  its  claim  to  universal  cultivation  is 
equal  to  that  of  the  Hyacinth,  Crocus,  Narcissus,  etc. 
It  may  be  planted  in  rich  soil  in  3  or  4-inch  pots, 
or  with  Hyacinths  in  the  center,  Tulips  next,  and  a  row 
or  more  of  Crocuses  on  the  margin.  In  large  pots,  cover 
the  bulb  with  soil,  water  well,  and  treat  same  as  Cro- 


TREATMENT  OF  DUTCH  BULBS. 


59 


cuses.     Figure  53  represents  the  Parrot  Tulip,  which  is 
by  far  the  finest  in  color,  etc. 

Narcissus. — Narcissus  (fig.  54)  from  narke,  stupor ; 
on  account  of  the  effects  produced  upon  the  nerves  by 
the  odor.  Nat.  Ord.  Amaryllidacece,  the  Amaryllids.  In 
importance,  the  Narcissus  ranks  next  to  the  Hyacinth. 
It  is  very  fragrant,  and  can  be  grown  the  same  as  the 
Hyacinth,  in  pots.  They  can  also  be  planted  in  large 
pots  with  Hyacinths,  Tulips,  Crocuses,  etc.,  around  them, 
and  thus  make  a  very  handsome  show. 

Snowdrops. — Galantlius,  Linn.    The  Snowdrop  (from 

gala,  milk,  and  anthus,  a 
flower ;)  alluding  to  the 
milk-white  flowers.  Nat. 
Ord.  AmaryllidacecB.  This 
little  bulb  is  universally 
admired  for  its  elegant 
milk-white  drooping  blos- 
soms. It  succeeds,  like 
the  Crocus,  in  any  soil,  in 
pots,  and  like  that,  can 
be  massed  to  advantage 
with  other  flowering  bulbs. 
These,  as  well  as  all  fall 
or  winter  bulbs,  are  very 
hardy  ;  therefore  let  them 
become  used  to  a  low  temperature,  say  40°  at  night,  with 
a  variation  of  15°  to  20°  in  the  .day  time.  If  they  can  be 
given  more  heat  at  night  than  40°,  it  does  them  no 
harm,  but  if  a  higher  temperature  can  not  be  kept  up 
every  night,  do  not  commence  it  in  the  beginning,  else 
you  are  sure  of  failure.  Do  not  force  them,  or  any  other 
winter-flowering  bulb,  too  much,  else  you  will  rob  them 
of  their  beauty,  and  have  imperfectly  shaped  and  weak- 
colored  flowers. 


Fiff.  54.— NARCISSUS. 


60  THE   WINDOW   FLOWER   GARDEN. 

CHAPTER  XXX. 
LIST  OF  PLANTS  FOR  THE  WINDOW  OR  ROOM. 

It  is  not  advisable  to  buy  flowers  from  a  vender,  or  at 
street  stands.  They  generally  have  plants  which  have 
been  much  abused,  and  consequently  have  been  bought 
cheap  from  some  florist.  The  leaves  of  a  healthy  plant 
are  of  a  fine  green.  If  they  are  in  bloom  or  not,  it  does 
not  matter.  Plants  which  are  intended  for  the  spring 
sale,  as  a  rule,  have  been  forced  to  bloom,  and  are,  there- 
fore, not  as  good  as  those  which  have  not  been  thus 
treated,  since  forcing  weakens  them  more  or  less.  If  plants 
offered  by  street  stands  or  venders  are  in  a  healthy  con- 
dition, of  course  it  is  all  right.  But,  as  a  rule,  they  have 
been  hawked  through  the  streets  for  days,  having  been 
allowed  to  wilt  and  get  full  of  dust ;  or  else  they  have 
been  on  the  side- walk  for  weeks,  even  months,  and  are 
literally  covered  with  dust.  Seeds  bought  from  such  ven- 
ders are  not  reliable,  because  they  generally  sell  anything, 
and  do  not  know  what  they  are  selling.  Do  not  deal  with 
them  in  any  way,  but  go  to  some  reliable  store  and  make 
your  selection  ;  even  if  the  seeds  may  cost  more,  they 
will  be  cheaper  in  the  end.  If  after  you  have  bought  your 
plants,  any  are  in  flower  and  not  healthy  and  strong, 
cut  them  off,  so  as  to  make  good,  vigorous  plants,  be- 
cause the  bloom  or  flower  takes  as  much  nourish- 
ment out  of  the  plant,  as  the  leaves  themselves  ;  if 
there  is  not  enough  nourishment  for  the  leaves,  how 
can  you  expect  to  nourish  the  bloom.  If  you  wish  plants 
to  flower  in  the  winter,  you  must  not  allow  them  to 
bloom  in  the  summer  ;  and  to  prevent  them  from  so  doing 
you  must  cut  the  buds  off  just  as  fast  as  they  appear. 
When  the  time  has  come  for  them  to  flower,  stop  cut- 
ting  off  the  buds. 


RULES   FOR   CULTURE   OF   WINDOW   PLANTS.  61 

LIST   OF   WINTER-FLOWERING    PLANTS. 
Abbreviations :  E,  Hardy  ;  H,  II,  Half-Hardy ;  T,  Tender. 


Ardisia,  H 

Azaleas,  R 

Begonia,  T 

Bouvardias,  T... 

Callas,  T 

Camellias,  R,  H. 
Carnations,  H... 
Cyclamen,  II.... 


Cinerarias,  T 

Dianthus,  H,  H 

Geranium,  Zonal,  R  - 

"  Scented,  fl,  H. 

Heliotropes,  T 

Oxalis,  H,  H. . 

Primroses,  T 

Violets,  H 


List  of  plants  useful  for  the  window,  having  fancy 
colored  leaves  and  generally  no  showy  flowers  : 

Anthericums,  H,  H,  S 'Isolepis,  E~,  S 

Aspidistra,  H,  R,  S Cauna,  R,  H,  S 

Begonia  Rex,  T,  S Lycopods,  R,  R,  S 

Centaureas,  T,  & Maranta,  T,  IS 

Echeveria,  T Pandanus,  T,  S 

Ferns,  R,  H,  S Palms,  T,  S 

"      Climbing,  Rf  R,  S Rubber  Plants,  H,  R,  IS 

Ivy,  German,  T Saxifraga,  R,  R,  IS 

"     English,  S i  Tradesman tia,  R,  H,  S 


Those  marked  S,  will  do  well  in  a  shady  window. 

In  addition  to  these,  there  are  many  more  plants  that 
can  be  used  for  the  window,  and  made  to  bloom  in  the 
winter,  if  not  allowed  to  bloom  in  the  summer.  There 
are  also  many  which  can  be  grown  from  seed  and  will 
bloom  in  the  winter  or  summer,  as  desired. 


CHAPTER   XXXI. 

GENERAL  RULES  FOR  THE   CULTURE  OF  WINTER  PLANTS. 

Culture  of  Hardy  Plants. — Hardy  plants  are  those 
that  will  stand  a  great  deal  of  cold,  and  these  plants  w  ill 
do  better  in  a  cool  than  warm  temperature.  Therefore, 
let  the  temperature  be  about  45°  to  55°  in  the  day,  with 
10°  less  at  night.  Use  rich  soil  in  all  cases,  and  water  as 
directed  in  the  Chapter  on  Watering,  except  where  spe- 
cial directions  for  watering  them  be  given. 


62  THE   WINDOW   FLOWER   GARDEN. 

Half-Hard y  Plants. — This  class  of  plants  requires 
more  heat  than  the  preceding  ;  say  50°  to  60°,  with  10° 
to  15°  less  at  night.     The  culture  otherwise,  is  the  same. 

Tender  Plants. — In  cultivating  the  plants  placed 
in  this  line,  great  care  should  be  taken,  because  the 
majority  of  them  will  turn  black  if  any  cold  wind  or 
frost  should  strike  them,  and  some  must  not  be  watered 
too  much,  if  they  have  not  enough  heat.  Use  rich,  light 
soil,  and  cultivate  in  the  usual  way,  with  a  temperature 
of  55°  to  70°  in  the  day,  and  about  10°  to  15°  less  at 
night.  These  names,  Hardy,  Half -Hardy,  and  Tender, 
are  used  to  distinguish  them,  and  to  give  an  idea  where 
to  place  them  in  the  window  or  conservatory. 

The  first  list  includes  such  plants  as  are  used  for  flow- 
ering during  the  winter.  In  some  cases  they  can  also  be 
employed  in  Vases,  Hanging-Baskets,  etc.  ;  but  they  are 
mostly  grown  as  pot  plants. 

The  second  list  contains  plants  which  are  best  adapted 
for  Plant-Stands,  Hanging-Baskets,  etc.  But  these,  with 
few  exceptions,  are  used  for  their  beautiful  foliage  and 
not  for  flowering,  as  there  are  but  a  few  which  flower, 
and  the  bloom  of  these  amount  to  but  little. 


CHAPTER    XXXII. 

short  description  of    winter  flowering   plants. 

Ardisia. — From  ardis,  spear-head,  the  hard  wood 
being  used  for  spear-heads.  Nat.  Ord.  Myrsinaceae. 
Summer  temperature,  60°  to  70°  ;  winter,  48°  to  55°. 
The  Ardisia,  with  its  dark  green  foliage  and  bright  red 
berries,  forms  a  splendid  plant  for  house  decorations. 
The  flowers  are  quite  small,  and  do  not  last  very  long. 
Afterwards,  the  berries  appear,  first  of  a  green  color,  and 
then  turning  dark  blood-red,  and  remain  on  the  plant 


DESCRIPTION   OF   WINTER   FLOWERING    PLANTS.       G3 

all  winter  until  spring,  when  they  should  be  pulled  off. 
It  is  a  fine  specimen  for  Jardinieres,  or  the  centre  of  a 
table.     There  is  also  a  variety  with  white  berries. 

Azalea. — From  the  Greek  for  arid,  having  no  special 
reference  to  the  plant.  Nat.  Ord.  Ericacece,  the  Heath 
Family.  Summer  temperature,  60°  to  70° ;  winter,  45° 
to  55°,  and  lower  if  for  late  blooming.  A  very  showy 
plant  when  in  bloom,  and  hardy.  It  must  be  grown  in  light 
leaf  mould  and  sandy  soils,  can  be  placed  in  a  shady  place 
in  summer,  and  requires  but  little  water,  and  only  when 
dry.     It  ought  to  be  well  sprinkled. 

Begonia,  named  in  honor  of  Michel  Beg  on,  Governor 
of  St.  Domingo,  about  two  hundred  years  ago.  Nat.  Ord. 
Begoriiacece.     Summer  temperature,  60°  to  70°  ;  winter, 


Fig.  55.— BEGONIA  MULTIFLORA. 

40°  to  60°.  The  Begonias  were  introduced  in  1777,  from 
Jamaica.  All  the  species  of  Begonia  are  interesting  and 
beautiful  ornaments  in  the  greenhouse  or  parlor  in  win- 


64  THE   WINDOW  FLOWER   GARDEH. 

ter.  The  graceful,  pendulous  flowers  of  these  plants  ren- 
ders them  most  desirable,  but  with  the  added  beauty  of 
their  glossy,  waxen  foliage,  they  are  simply  superb.  Sev- 
eral tuberous-rooted  species  have  recently  been  intro- 
duced. They  have  large,  showy  flowers  and  succeed  well 
in  a  moist,  half-shady  place.  We  have  not  the  space  here 
to  give  an  extended  description  of  them,  but  shall  men- 
tion the  two  most  easily  cultivated  in  the  room  or  window. 

Begonia  multifiora,  figure  55,  has  large  pink  flowors, 
and  is  of  easy  culture  in  the  house.  It  is  covered  with  a 
profusion  of  flowers.  It  does  best  in  a  cool  place,  with 
plenty  of  sun  to  make  it  bloom  well.  The  Begonias  mast 
be  sprinkled  three  or  four  times  a  week  to  prevent  insects 
from  infesting  them.  I  have  seen  a  specimen  plant  of 
this  variety  grown  by  a  lady  in  her  room,  that  would  give 
credit  to  any  florist  had  he  grown  it. 

Begonia  glaucophylla  scandens.  See  figure  56.  This 
is  a  drooping  or  creeping  species,  with  light  green,  glossy 
leaves,  and  large  clusters  of  orange  salmon-colored  flow- 
ers. For  growing  in  hanging  baskets,  this  species  will 
be  looked  for  and  greatly  esteemed,  as  -it  droops  beauti- 
fully over  the  sides,  as  shown  in  figure  56,  and  when  in 
bloom  there  is  no  prettier  object.  This,  like  nearly  all 
Begonias,  is  propagated  by  either  cuttings  or  seeds,  and 
they  do  well  in  a  light,  rich  soil. 

In  preparing  a  hanging  basket,  select  one  of  the  rustic 
imitation  log  baskets,  and  put  a  Begonia  on  each  side  and 
some  graceful  plant,  such  as  a  Dracaena,  in  the  center. 

Bouvahdia. — (In  memory  of  Dr.  Bouvard,  Superin- 
tendent of  the  Eoyal  Palace  Botanic  Garden).  Nat.  Ord. 
Ruliacem,  the  Madder  Family.  Summer  temperature, 
50°  to  70°  ;  winter,  35°  to  45°.  These  are  among  the  most 
important  plants  cultivated  for  winter  flowering.  The 
form  of  the  flower  is  star-shaped,  its  colors,  white,  pink, 
blush,  and  crimson.  They  do  well  in  cool  places  with 
plenty  of  sun  to  make  them  bloom  well.     They  must  be 


DESCRIPTION   OF    WINTER   FLOWERING    PLANTS.       G5 


66  THE    WINDOW   FLOWER   GARDEN. 

sprinkled  three  or  four  times  a  week,  to  prevent  insects 
from  infesting  them. 

Calla. — See  Eichardia. 

Camellias. — Camellia,  named  in  honor  of  a  mission- 
ary to  China,  G.  Kamel,  or  Camellus.  Nat.  Ord.  Tern- 
strcemiacea — the  Tea  Family.      Summer  temperature, 


Fig.  57.— C  ANN  AS. 

50°  to  70°  ;  winter,  35°  to  45°.  All  the  Camellias  are  uni- 
versally admired  by  every  collector  of  plants,  on  account 
of  their  beautiful  rose-like  flowers  and  elegant  dark-green, 


DESCRIPTION   OF   WINTER   FLOWERING   PLANTS.      67 

shining,  laurel-like  leaves.  They  are  very  hardy  green- 
house plants  and  are  of  easy  culture,  requiring  only  to  be 
sheltered  from  severe  frost.  The  best  soil  for  them  is  an 
equal  quantity  of  good  sandy  loam  and  peat.  But  some 
of  the  best  Camellia  growers  have  found  that  simple  light 
loam  alone  answers  their  needs  very  well.  The  pots 
should  be  well  drained  with  pieces  of  potsherds,  that  the 
roots  may  not  get  soddened  with  too  much  water,  as 
nothing  injures  them  more  than  over- watering,  particu- 
larly when  they  are  not  in  a  growing  state.  When  grow- 
ing freely,  they  can  scarcely  have  too  much  water,  and 
they  should  be  syringed,  over  the  leaves,  with  fresh  water 
daiiy.  They  must  be  shaded  in  the  summer  from  the 
full  effect  bf  the  sun,  and  need  to  be  potted  but  once  in 
the  season.  Do  not  use  any  guano  or  other  strong  fer- 
tilizers, as  they  do  not  require  it. 

Canna. — Carina  (Indian  Shot),  a  Celtic  name  for 
Cane.  Nat.  Ord.  Marantacem,  the  Arrowrcot  Family. 
Summer  temperature,  60°  to  80°;  winter,  45°  to  55°.  This 
is  a  genus  worthy  of  cultivation  in  all  collections,  as  its 
lively  flowers  are  produced  in  great  abundance  and  at  all 
seasons  ;  many  species  are  now  in  our  collections  ;  and  a 
rich  light  soil  suits  all  of  them  best.  They  are  propa- 
gated by  divisions  of  the  roots  or  by  seeds,  which  they 
produce  in  abundance.  Figure  57  represents  a  plant 
grown  from  one  root. 

Carnation.  —  Dianthus  Caryophyllus  (Carnation). 
The  name  is  from  the  Greek,  meaning  Jove's  own  flower. 
Nat.  Ord.  Caryophyllacece,  the  Pink  Family.  A  truly 
beautiful  and  ornamental  genus,  containing  some  of  the 
most  prized  flowers  we  possess,  on  account  of  their  beauty 
and  fragrance,  which  make  them  indispensable  for  deco- 
rating the  conservatory  or  parlor  window  in  winter.  The 
varieties  are  very  numerous  with  colors  from  white,  pink, 
maroon,  crimson,  scarlet,  yellow-striped,  etc.  Keep  them 
in  a  very  cool  place,  not  over  50°  to  60°. 


68 


THE   WINDOW   FLOWER   GARDEN". 


Cyclamen. — Cyclamen  (Alpine  Violet  and  Sow  Bread). 
A  classical  name.  Nat.  Ord.  Primulacem.  The  colors 
white  and  shades  of  crimson.  As  a  winter  blooming 
plant  for  a  conservatory  or  parlor  window,  it  is  invalu- 
able ;  with  some  the  leaves  are  strikingly  variegated,  and 
the  flowers  are  unique  and  beautiful.  As  it  has  a  large 
bulb,  care  must  be  taken  to  save  this  in  the  summer. 
After  the  leaves  have  dropped  off,  let  them  have  a  few 
months  rest,  and  later  on  start  them  into  growth  in  a 
rich  light  soil,  giving  a  plenty  of  sun  and  little  water 

when  needed.  The 
bulb  will  bloom  every 
winter  if  taken  care 
of.  Do  not  give  it 
too  much  heat,  about 
50°  being  sufficient, 
and  they  will  bloom 
better  and  produce 
more  flowers  than 
when  they  are  kept 
too  warm. 

Geraniums  (Zo- 
nal).—  Pelargonium 
(  Geranium  ),  from 
the  Greek  word  for 
Stork,  from  a  resem- 
blance of  the  pointed  fruit  to  the  beak  of  a  bird.  Nat. 
Ord.  Gera?iiacw,  the  Geranium  Family.  The  greenhouse 
species,  though  popularly  called  Geranium,  belong  to  the 
genus  Pelargonium,  the  plants  belonging  to  the  genus  Ge- 
ranium  are  herbs.  The  Geranium  is  too  well  known  to 
need  a  lengthy  description.  The  colors  of  the  flowers 
are  various  shades  of  white,  blush,  pink,  scarlet,  crim- 
son, salmon  or  Indian  yellow,  etc.  The  leaves  are  green, 
with  a  bronzy  zone  or  mark  close  to  the  edge.  The 
Geranium  does  well  in  almost  any  soil.    It  requires  plenty 


Kg.  58.—  CYCIAMEN. 


DESCRIPTION   OF   WINTER   FLOWERING   PLANTS.       69 

of  fresh  air  and  can  be  kept  in  a  warm  place,  bnt  it 
thrives  best  in  a  room  of  a  regular  moderate  tempera- 
ture of  about  50°  to  60°,  well  sprinkled  and  aired  to  make 
stocky  plants,  otherwise  they  will  have  rank,  slim,  long 
stalks,  with  leaves  here  and  there.  It  does  well  for  the 
center  of  baskets,  vases,  etc.,  but  not  for  ferneries.  They 
can  be  grown  easily  from  seeds,  and  they  will  often  give 
new  varieties  by  so  increasing  them.  They  can  also  be 
easily  raised  from  cuttings. 

Scented  Geranium.— As  every  one  knows  the  Eose 
Geranium,  it  is  needless  to  describe  it.  These  are  all 
species  of  Pelargonium,  and  are  popularly  known  as 
Lemon,  Apple,  Peppermint,  etc.,  scented  Geraniums, 
for  which  consult  the  catalogue  of  some  florist.  The  cul- 
ture is  the  same  as  for  Zonal  Geraniums. 

Heliotropes.—  Heliotr opium  (Heliotrope),  from  the 
Greek,  meaning,  turning  to  the  sun.  Nat.  Ord.  Borra- 
ginacece,  the  Borage  Family.  This  plant  is  a  universal 
favorite  on  account  of  its  sweet  fragrance.  It  is  of  easy 
culture,  and  will  afford  sweet  scented  blooms  during 
winter.  The  light  blush  violet  and  lilac  varieties  are 
the  most  fragrant.  The  darker  kinds  are  not  so  much 
so.  The  culture  is  about  the  same  as  for  Geranium  ;  but 
they  require  more  heat,  say  60°  to  65°,  and  do  not  like 
to  have  the  cold  air  strike  them,  as  this  will  turn  the 
flowers  and  leaves  black. 

Ox  alls.—  Sorrel  (name  from  oxys,  sharp,  referring  to 
the  acid  taste  of  the  leaves).  Nat.  ord.,  Oxalidacem. 
This  genus  comprises  a  great  number  of  species,  differing 
in  their  habits  and  manner  of  growth,  but  we  find  the 
three  we  have  selected  the  best  for  window  gardening, 
being  bulbous  species. 

Oxalis  Boweii,  figure  59,  is  decidedly  the  best  and 
handsomest  of  them  all.  The  flowers  are  large,  of  a 
most  brilliant  crimson  color,  and  produced  in  the  greatest 
profusion,  if  planted  in  pots,   or  better  still,   in  small 


70 


THE    WINDOW   FLOWER   GARDEN. 


earthen  hanging  baskets,  say  about  six  bulbs  in  a  six- 
inch  basket.  They  will  cover  the  entire  surface  with 
a  mass  of  leaves,  much  like  those  of  the  common  Eed 
Clover,  but  larger,  with  from  five  to  ten  clusters  of  four 
to  ten  flowers  each,  and  rising  about  six  inches  above  the 
foliage. 

Oxalis  alba,  a  white  kind,  with  leaves  and  flowers 
much  smaller  than  the  foregoing ;  it  is  also  a  very  pro- 
fuse bloomer.  It  does  best  in  pots  ;  it  will  also  do  well 
in  baskets,  stands,  vases,  etc.,  planted  at  the  edge,  where 
it  will  cover  them  quickly  with  a  growth  of  small  leaves, 
like  those  of  White  Clover. 

Oxalis  floribunda  rosea,  a  rose-colored  variety,  much 

like  alba,  by  some  called 
multiflora,  it  being  very 
free-blooming.  It  is  of 
a  sort  of  rose,  or  lilac 
rose  color,  with  a  yellow 
center  or  eye.  There  are 
many  varieties  of  Oxalis 
rosea,  and  this  particu- 
lar one  is  very  hard  to 
get  from  large  bulb- 
houses,  and  when  it  is 
asked  for,  you  may  be 
given  any  of  the  others 
but  of  this  one,  for  this 
reason,  I  take  care  of  all 
my  small  bulbs  and  sell 
the  large  ones  only.  There  is  another  Oxalis,  called  Ox- 
alis lutea,  a  yellow  flowering  species,  very  good  for 
large  stands  or  baskets,  but  I  do  not  think  much  of  it  for 
small  work.  It  is  a  native  of  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  with 
long,  slender,  flowering  stalks,  sometimes  ten  to  fourteen 
inches  long,  with  clusters  of  golden  yellow  flowers  on 
long  slender  scapes.     These  are  liable  to  be  broken  off, 


Fig.  59.— oxalis  BOWEn. 


DESCRIPTION   OF   WINTER   FLOWERING    FLANTS.       71 

and  for  this  reason  I  do  not  prize  it  highly.  All  the  spe- 
cies under  cultivation  are  either  from  the  Cape  of  Good 
Hope  or  South  America,  and  they  are  all  easy  of  cultiva- 
tion. Give  them  a  place  where  they  can  have  sun  and 
shade,  and  light,  rich  soil,  and  water  freely. 

Richardia,  also  often  called  Oalla.— Named  in  honor 
of  L.  C.  Richard,  a  French  botanist.  Nat.  Ord.  Aracece, 
the  Arum  Family.  The  well  known  white  Calla  Lily  needs 
no  description,  as  it  is  so  well  known.  It  does  well 
in  any  rich  soil.  If  you  wish  them  to  bloom  freely,  do 
not  give  them  water  in  excess,  but  enough  ;  if  you  wish 
an  abundance  of  fine  green  leaves,  let  them  have  plenty 
of  water.  They  should  also  be  sprinkled  often,  to 
keep  the  green-fly  from  infesting  them,  the  latter  prefer 
these  leaves  above  all  others,  as  they  are  succulent.  In 
spring,  after  they  have  bloomed  all  winter,  lay  the  pots  on 
the  side  in  the  shade  and  do  not  water  them,  so  that  they 
can  have  a  rest  for  one  or  two  months.  Then  set  them 
up  again  and  water  sparingly  until  they  start  to  grow  ; 
re-pot  them,  water  often,  and  they  will  bloom  again  dur- 
ing the  coming  winter. 

Saxifraga. — Saxifrage,  from  Saxum,  a  stone,  and 
frango,  to  break.  Some  formerly  had  reputed  medi- 
cinal qualities  in  some  diseases.  Nat.  Ord.  Sazifragacece. 
In  this  very  extensive  genus,  numbering  more  than  a 
hundred  and  fifty  species,  we  have  very  beautiful  hardy 
perennials,  admirably  adapted  for  rock  work  or  rough 
borders,  but  our  summers  are  too  hot  for  the  majority  of 
the  Alpine  species.  The  one  most  generally  cultivated 
as  a  window  plant  is  the  Creeping  Saxifrage,  Saxifraga 
sarmentosa,  figure  60.  The  number  of  its  common  names 
is  evidence  of  its  popularity.  It  is  known  as  "  Beef-steak 
Geranium, "  "  Strawberry  Geranium,"  because  of  its 
Strawberry-like  runners,  a  "Thousand  to  One,"  and  by 
various  other  names.  Its  manner  of  growth  well  adapts 
it  for  the  edges  of  baskets  and  window  boxes.     It  puts 


72 


THE   WINDOW   FLOWER   GARDEN. 


forth  a  long  stem  like  a  Strawberry  runner,  but  much 

more  slender,  at  the  end  of 
which  a  little  plant  appears, 
as  shown  in  figure  60.  In 
time  this  plant  produces 
another,  and  so  on.  These 
offsets  readily  take  root, 
sometimes  even  in  the  air, 
hanging  down  from  the  bas- 
ket, thus  allowing  the  rapid 
multiplication  of  the  plant. 
The  roundish,  hairy  leaves 
are  handsomely  variegated, 
and  the  large  cluster  of 
small  pinkish- white  flowers, 
though  not  very  showy,  is 
pleasing.  It  will  grow  in  al- 
most any  soil,  and  does  best 
in  a  cool,  moist  situation.  In 
1870,  Saxifraga  sarmentosa 
variegata  was  introduced, 
being  beautifully  and  more 
distinctly  variegated  with 
white  and  rose  colored  mark- 
ings on  the  leaves,  but  it  is 
apt  to  run  back  to  the  origi- 
nal species. 

Tradescantia  (Spider- 
wort),  named  in  honor  of 
Tradescant,  gardener  to 
Charles  I.  Nat.  Ord.  Com- 
melynacecB,  the  Spiderwort 
Family.  Some  have  bright, 
glossy-green  leaves,  some 
have    silvery-white    stripes 

Fig.  60.— saxafraga  sarmentosa.    upon  a  dark-green  ground, 


DESCRIPTION   OF  WINTER  FLOWERING   PLANTS.        73 

and  in  others  the  back  of  the  leaves  is  violet-purple,  and 
the  upper  side  light-green.  They  are  mostly  of  a  droop- 
ing or  creeping  habit,  except  T.  discolor,  which  is  used 
for  centers  of  vases  or  baskets.  The  drooping  kinds  are 
very  ornamental  for  the  edges  of  baskets,  vases,  etc. 
They  will  do  well  in  any  rich  soil,  are  easily  raised  from 
slips,  and  grow  well  in  shady  and  moist  places.  The 
temperature  may  be  kept  at  about  40°  to  45°.  The  most 
of  them  have  very  small  blue  flowers,  which  are  of  but 
little  consequence. 
Violets. — Viola  (The  Violet).      The   Latin  name. 


Fig.  61.— VIOLET,   MAEIA  LOUISE. 

Nat.  Ord.  Violaeece,  the  Violet  Family.  This  is  also  a 
very  well  known  flowering  plant,  of  which  there  are 
many  varieties — white,  light  and  dark  blue,  single  and 
double.  The  one  most  in  cultivation  with  the  finest  large 
sweet-scented  flowers  is  V.  Marie  Louise,  which  surpass- 
es all  other  double  blue  Violets  in  the  profusion  of  its 
flowers,  richness  of  color  and  delicious  fragrance.  They 
are  hardy  and  need  therefore  little  heat.  Give  plenty  of 
fresh  air  on  warm  days,  and  place  in  a  sunny  window. 
When  done  blooming  in  spring,  replant  them  in  the  gar- 
den, or  grow  in  pots  by  dividing  the  roots,  and  cultivate 
as  other  hardy  plants,  such  as  carnations,  etc. 


74  THE   WINDOW   FLOWER   GARDEN. 

PLANTS  WITH  ORNAMENTAL  FOLIAGE. 

Anthericum,  Linn.  Nat.  Ord.  Liliacece.  A.  vitatum 
variegatiun.  A  species  of  recent  introduction  from 
the  Cape  of  Good  Hope.  It  has  foliage  of  a  bright 
grassy  green,  beautifully  striped  and  margined  with 
creamy  white.  In  variegation  and  habits  it  closely  re- 
sembles Pandanus  VeitcMi,  but  is  of  more  rapid  growth 
and  of  more  easy  cultivation.  It  has  a  hardy  constitu- 
tion, not  as  against  cold,  but  it  resists  the  dry  atmos- 
phere and  gases  of  our  dwellings,  which  makes  it  a  valu- 
able plant  for  the  conservatory,  and  as  a  specimen  plant, 
in  a  large  pot,  or  for  filling  in  baskets,  Jardinieres,  or 
rustic  stands,  etc.  The  method  of  propagating  this 
species  is  both  interesting  and  peculiar.  Buds  or  short 
shoots  are  formed  on  the  flower  stems,  which,  if  put  in 
as  cuttings  in  the  ordinary  way,  take  root  rapidly.  It  is 
also  propagated  by  seed  or  by  division  of  the  roots.  By 
allowing  one  plant  to  remain  undisturbed,  or  undivided 
in  a  large  pot  and  watered  well  with  a  liquid  fertilizer,  it 
will  make  a  very  beautiful  ornament  for  the  center  of 
a  large  table  or  a  shelf. 

Aspidistra. — From  aspidiseon,  a  little  round  shield  ; 
the  form  of  the  flower.  Nat.  Ord.  Liliacece.  A  small 
genus  found  in  China  and  Japan,  remarkable  for  produc- 
ing their  flowers  just  below  the  surface  of  the  soil.  They 
are  useful  house  plants ;  the  foliage  of  A.  lurida  varie- 
gata,  which  is  a  very  dark  green  with  broad  stripes  of 
white,  contrasts  finely  with  other  plants  with  ornamental 
foliage.  There  is  no  other  plant  that  I  know  of  that  will 
so  well  stand  the  ill-treatment  plants  receive  in  the  liv- 
ing room  or  window  as  this  ;  we  have  several  which  have 
been  in  use  for  the  past  six  years,  and  to-day  are  m  a 
perfect  condition.  Each  year  they  shoot  up  from  five  to 
fifteen  new  leaves.  These  are  very  graceful  and  are 
easily  kept  clean  from  all  kinds  of  vermin.     For  the  pro- 


DESCRIPTION    OF   WINTER   FLOWERING   PLANTS.       75 

duction  of  well  marked  plants,  the  pots  in  which  they 
are  grown  should  be  small,  and  the  soil  liberally  mixed 
with  sand  and  rotten  manure.  They  are  easily  propa- 
gated by  suckers,  which,  if  put  into  small  pots,  will  not 
make  any  new  leaves  the  first  year,  but  about  the  second 
and  third  season  they  will  commence  to  fill  up  the  pot, 
when  they  should  be  shifted  into  larger  pots  as  required. 
They  do  well  in  a  shady  or  a  sunny  window,  and  for 
window  boxes  I  know  of  no  plant  better  adapted. 

Begonia — For  the  green-leaved  Begonias,  see  page  63. 
Begonia  Rex  and  its  varieties  are  of  the  simplest  cul- 
ture in  any  soil,  if  allowed  an  abundant  supply  of 
water,  and  plenty  of  heat.  They  will  thrive  best  in  a 
half  shady  place.  They  are  all  large-leaved  sorts  and  the 
most  ornamental  of  the  species.  They  are  best  propa- 
gated by  cutting  the  leaves  in  sections,  each  being  so  cut 
as  to  form  a  junction  of  the  ribs  at  the  lower  end  of  the 
cutting.  These  should  be  laid  in  a  damp,  warm  place, 
or  on  the  propagating  bench,  with  good  bottom  heat,  or  a 
leaf,  or  a  portion  of  one  may  be  laid  flat  on  the  sand  of 
the  cutting  bench  in  any  shady  place  in  the  greenhouse. 

There  is  no  other  plant  that  will  make  a  hanging  bas- 
ket, rustic  stand,  or  vase,  etc.,  look  nicer  and  brighter 
in  color,  than  this  handsome  "variegated  foliage  plants." 
Their  markings  are  something  marvelous,  and  by  many 
are  at  first  sight  supposed  to  be  artificial,  as  they  have 
perfect  zones  or  stripes,  around  the  centre  and  outside 
lines  of  the  leaves,  like  the  Zonal  Geraniums,  and  their 
rich  velvety  texture  with  mottled  spots  seems  perfect. 

Centaurea.— Centaurea  (Star-Thistle),  named  after 
Chiron,  the  Centaur.  Nat.  Ord.  Composites,  the  Com- 
posite Family.  The  species  of  this  genus  are,  for  the 
greater  part,  ornamental  plants,  growing  from  half  afoot 
to  several  feet  high,  and  are  easily  grown  from  seeds. 
The  one  best  adapted  for  the  winter  garden  is  C.  gymno- 
carpa.     It  attains  a  diameter  of  12  to  18  inches,  forming 


76 


THE   WINDOW  FLOWER   GARDEN. 


Fig.  62.— DRACAENA  AUSTRALIS. 


a  graceful  rounded  clump  of  silvery  gray  foliage  ;  on  this 
account  nothing  is  better  fitted  to  contrast  with  other 
plants  having  a  dark  foliage.  As  a  plant  for  hanging- 
baskets  it  is  also  un- 
surpassed. Will  grow 
well  in  any  good  rich 
soil,  with  a  tempera- 
ture of  40°  to  50°. 

Drac^nas. — Bra- 
ccena  (Dragon-Tree), 
from  Drakaina,  a  fe- 
male dragon  ;  some  of 
the  species  yield  a  red 
gum,  called  Dragon's 
Blood.  Nat.Ord.Zt7i- 
acce,  the  Lily  Family. 
There  are  many  spe- 
cies and  varieties  of 
these  plants.  D.  Bra- 
siliensis  and  D.  ter- 
minalis  are  the  most 
generally  cultivated. 
These  handsome  orna- 
mental-leaved plants 
are  exceedingly  useful 
for  the  decoration  of 
the  table  or  for  the 
room ;  also  for  the 
greenhouse  or  con- 
servatory. A  more 
graceful  pJant  than 
D.  australis,  figure 
62,  with  long,  narrow  leaves,  can  hardly  be  found.  D. 
Brasiliensis,  figure  63,  is  exceedingly  handsome  for  the 
center  of  a  vase  or  stand,  forming  a  beautiful  object, 
with  its  fine,  broad,  recurving  foliage.     It  is  strikingly 


Fig.  63. — DRACAENA  BRASILIENSIS. 


DESCRIPTION   OF   WINTER   FLOWERING   PLANTS.      77 

effective   for  conservatory  and  greenhouse    decoration. 
Summer  temperature,  60°  to  80°  ;  winter,  48°  to  55°. 

Echeveria. — In  honor  of  M.  Echeveria,  author  of  the 
splendid  drawings  of  the  "Flora  Mexicana."  Nat.  Ord. 
Crassulacece.  The  Echeverias  are  excellent  plants,  all 
more  or  less  ornamental,  particularly  so  when  in  flower. 
Some  are  dwarf  and  herbaceous,  and  others  more  or  less 
shrubby  in  their  habit.  They  are  all  free  growing  plants, 
suitable  for  rockeries  and  baskets,  and  specimen  plants  in 
the  window.  They  must  be  freely  supplied  with  water  while 
crowing.  The  Echeverias  are  readily  propagated  by  the 
leaves,  especially  those  produced  along  the  flower  stem, 
and  by  seeds.  They  require  a  very  open  or  porous  soil, 
consisting  of  loam  and  coarse  sand.  They  are  chiefly 
natives  of  Mexico  ;  some  of  the  more  popular  kinds  are  of 
recent  introduction.  As  this  interesting  genus  of  plants 
has  taken  a  prominent  position  within  the  last  few  years 
in  designing,  to  produce  beautiful  effects  in  carpet  bed- 
ding, I  would  advise  all  who  will,  to  add  them  to  their 
list  of  plants.  They  belong  to  the  same  family  with  the 
Sempervivum  or  "  House  Leek,  "  having  thick,  succulent 
leaves,  and  showy  bright  red  and  yellow  flowers ;  the 
following  two  are  the  best  : 

Echeveria  seccunda  glauca,  and  E.  Mexicana.  Bot- 
anists now  place  these  plants  in  the  genus  Cotyledon,  but 
Echeveria  is  too  well  established  as  a  garden  name,  to  be 
readily  changed. 

Ferns. — Hardy  ferns  are  found  in  various  situations, 
and  consequently  require  different  modes  of  treatment. 
Some  grow  on  rocks  in  exposed  situations ;  others  in 
boggy,  moist  ground  ;  some  grow  in  shady  woods  and  in 
the  crevices  of  rocks,  whilst  others,  again,  grow  near 
waterfalls,  where  the  spray  keeps  them  constantly  moist. 
To  succeed  in  cultivating  the  different  ferns  all  in  one 
place,  will  require  some  experience.  The  best  way  to 
grow  them  is  in  a  Fern  Case,  figures  32  and  33.     In  col- 


78 


THE   WINDOW   FLOWER   GARDEN. 


lectio g  wild  ferns,  take  with  them  enough  of  the  soil  in 
which  they  grow  in  which  to  plant  them  ;  keep  them 
well  watered.  A  few  varieties  can  be  grown  in  pots  if 
desired,  but  Ferns,  like  Heaths,  if  they  once  get  thor- 
oughly dry,  will  perish,  therefore  keep  them  constantly 
well  watered,  more  especially  when  the  pots  are  full  of 


Fig.  64.— BASKET   OF   FERNS.—  HANDLES  COVERED  WITH  "GERMAN  IVY." 

roots ;  should  any  chance  to  be  suffering  severely  from 
drouth,  take  such  and  stand  them  for  an  hour  or  two  in 
a  vessel  of  water  deep  enough  to  cover  the  top  of  the  pot. 
This  will  thoroughly  wet  every  part  of  the  ball  of  earth, 
and  the  plant  will  often  recover.  Ferns  require  a  light, 
open  soil.  A  compost  of  sandy,  fibrous  peat  two  parts, 
turfy  loam  one  part,  and  leaf -mould  one  part,  with  a  free 


DESCRIPTION   OF   WINTER   FLOWERING    PLANTS.        70 

admixture  of  sand,  will  suit  them  best ;  temperature 
about  50°. 

Figure  64  gives  a  fair  representation  of  a  Hanging 
Basket  filled  with  Ferns  of  various  kinds,  with  the 
handles  covered  with  German  Ivy.  These  baskets  re- 
quire a  great  deal  of  care  and  ■  attention,  and  it  should 
never  be  forgotten  to  thoroughly  water  them,  as  the  main 
requirement  if  one  would  have  perfectly  healthy  Ferns. 
They  require  a  good  shower  of  fresh  water  through  a  fine 
syringe,  and  this  at  least  once  a  day,  and  in  hot  dry 
rooms,  they  ought  to  have  it  twice  daily. 

Ficus. — Ficus  (the  Fig),  the  ancient  name.  Nat. 
Ord.  Urticaccce,  the  Nettle  Family.  The  species  men- 
tioned here,  Ficus  elastica,  is  from  the  East  Indies,  and 
is  generally  known  as  the  India-Rubber  Tree.  It  pro- 
duces gum-elastic,  but  the  great  supply  of  commerce 
comes  from  other  trees,  natives  of  South  America.  This 
is  a  plant  of  robust  and  elegant  habit,  with  magnificent, 
large,  glossy  dark-green  leaves.  It  is  easily  cultivated 
and  will  thrive  well  in  any  light  rich  soil,  or  in  loam  and 
peat ;  it  will  do  well  in  any  shady  warm  place. 

Ivy. — Hedera.  The  name  appears  to  be  derived  from 
hedra,  a  Celtic  word  signifying  a  cord.  The  English 
name  Ivy  is  derived  from  iva,  a  word  in  the  same  lan- 
guage, signifying  always  green.     Nat.  Ord.  Araliacem. 

There  are  two  distinct  plants  called  "Ivy."  The 
"German  Ivy"  and  the  "  English  Ivy,"  Hedera  Helix. 
This  last  is  what  is  called  a  rooting  climber  ;  that  is,  its 
stems  climb  up  trees,  walls,  sides  of  dwellings,  or  any 
other  suitable  object,  which  presents  a  sufficiently  rough 
surface  for  their  aerial  roots  to  take  hold  of.  As  these 
roots  are  found  all  along  the  stems  of  the  ivy,  it  is  best 
propagated  in  a  basket  filled  with  good  soil.  The  cut- 
tings are  made  of  the  stems,  a  foot  long,  and  planted  in 
the  center  of  the  baskets ;  thus  treated,  they  take  root 
easily  and  make  an  ornament  for  the  window.     (See  fig. 


80  THE  WINDOW  FLOWER  GARDEN. 

65).  Ivy  is  also  very  often  employed  for  covering  trel- 
lises, the  handles  of  hanging  baskets,  etc.  Ivy  does 
well  in  any  rich  soil.  It  can  also  be  increased  by  slips 
taken  off  and,  planted  where  they  are  to  grow.  It  does 
well  in  the  shade  ;  the  leaves  must  be  frequently 
sprinkled  with  fresh  water  to  prevent  them  from  being 
infested  with    scale  insects,  and  others.     Temperature 


Fig.  65. — THE  IVY  HANGING  BASKET. 

about  35°  to  45°.  It  will  stand  out  doors  during  winter, 
except  in  very  rare  cases,  or  the  plants  are  very  young. 
Lycopodiums. — Lycopodium  (Club-Moss),  from  the 
Greek  for  wolf  and  foot,  from  the  hairy  stems  of  some 
species.  Most  of  the  greenhouse  species,  though  popu- 
larly called  Lycopodiums,  properly  belong  to  the  related 
genus  Selaginelta,  a  diminutive  of  Selago,  a  species  of 
Lycopodium.  Both  belong  to  the  Nat.  Ord.  Lycopo- 
diacecB,  the  Club-Moss  Family.  They  may  be  grown  in 
pots,  but  do  best  in  the  Fern  Cases,  figs.  32  and  33,  with 
Ferns  in  the  center  and  these  around  them,  to  form  a 
green  carpet  for  the  Ferns.     They  are  easily  propagated 


DESCRIPTION   OF   WINTER   FLOWERING   PLANTS.       81 

by  dividing  the  plants  and  re-potting  or  planting.  They 
require  a  plentiful  supply  of  moisture,  with  a  turfy  loam 
for  their  soil,  though  they  will  grow  in  any  light  loam. 
They  do  best  if  kept  in  the  shade,  and  at  a  temperature 
similar  to  that  for  Ferns. 

Marantas. — Mar  ant  a  (Arrowroot),  named  after  a 
Venetian  botanist,  Maranti,  of  the  16th  century.  Nat. 
Ord.  Marantacece,  the  Arrowroot  Family.  A  genus  of 
interesting  plants,  which  grow  well  in  any  light,  rich 
soil ;  they  are  readily  increased  by  dividing  the  roots  and 
re-potting  them.  Summer  temperature,  60°  to  85°;  win- 
ter, 50°  to  60°.     They  will  do  also  in  the  Fern  Oases. 

Palms. — Palm  Trees,,  of  several  genera  and  species  be- 
longing to  Nat.  Ord.  Palmacem,  or  Palm  Family.  The 
Palms  constitute  the  most  noble  family  in  the  vegetable 
kingdom,  and  afford  sufficient  diversity  of  character  to 
allow  of  selections  being  made  from  them  for  the  con- 
servatory or  window,  to  either  of  which  the  palms  im- 
part a  richer  tropical  appearance  than  any  other  plants. 
Some  of  the  miniature,  dwarf-growing  kinds  are,  from 
their  light  and  graceful  forms,  admirably  adapted  for 
table  decoration,  for  vases,  or  for  almost  any  purpose 
where  ornamental  plants  are  desired.  They  are  mostly 
natives  of  tropical  countries,  and  their  products  are  vari- 
ous and  important.  They,  as  a  general  thing,  require  a 
plenty  of  heat  and  a  good  rich  soil,  and  need  to  be  fre- 
quently sprinkled  with  water. 

Pandanus. — Pandanus  utilis  (Screw  Pine.)  From 
pandang,  a  word  in  the  Malay  language  signifying 
conspicuous.  Nat.  Ord.  Pandanacece.  This  is  an  ex- 
ceedingly ornamental  genus,  and  is  very  common  in  the 
East  Indian  Islands.  The  leaves  are  imbricated,  and 
embrace  the  stem,  bearing  some  resemblance  to  the  Pine- 
apple. The  leaves  are  from  three  to  five  feet  long,  and 
grow  in  three  spiral  rows  around  the  extremities  of  the 
branches.     To  support  the  great  weight  at  the  top  of  the 


82  THE   WINDOW   FLOWER   GARDEN. 

plant,  as  the  large  leaves  grow,  nature  has  endowed  the 
plant  with  the  ability  to  prop  itself  up  by  means  of 
aerial  roots,  which  grow  out  from  the  side  of  the  trunk 
at  an  angle  suitable  for  its  support.  Without  these  it 
would  become  top-heavy  from  the  accumulation  of  the 
large  fleshy  leaves  ;  but  it  takes  many  years  for  it  to 
attain  this  enormous  growth.     Pandanus  utilis  is  the 


Fig.  66.— PANDANUS  UTILIS. 

species  most  frequently  met  within  our  greenhouses,  and 
is,  perhaps,  the  most  valuable  of  any  plant  used  in  deco- 
ration, as  it  withstands  gas,  dust,  and  general  ill  usage 
better  than  almost  any  other  known  plant.  It  is  most 
useful  in  its  native  country,  the  Mauritius,  where  it  not 
only  grows  wild,  but  is  cultivated  for  its  leaves,  from 
which  bags  or  sacks  for  the  export  of  sugar  are  manu- 
factured. They  are  grown  from  the  seed,  or  from  cut- 
tings, the  former  method  being  the  most  common. 


FLOWERS  THAT   WILL   GROW   FROM   SEED. 


83 


TVe  have  also  the  Pandanus  Javanicus  variegatus,  and 
Pandanus  Veitchii.  Both  with  striped  green  and  white 
foliage.     The  best  temperature  for  these  is  60°  or  70°. 


CHAPTER   XXXIII. 

FLOWERS  THAT  WILL   GROW    FROM   SEED. 

The  names  here  given  are  those  of  plants  best  known 
to  every  lover  of  flowers.  As  I  have  but  little  space 
for  the  long  list  of  Flowers  which  can  be  grown  from 
seeds,  I  would  recommend  the  reader  to  consult  any  first 
class  seed  catalogue  for  a  more  extended  number.  Nothing 
is  more  important  in  raising  flowers  from  seeds  than  to 
sow  them  at  the  proper  depth  ;  therefore  follow  the  direc- 
tions given  in  Chap.  XXII.  All  flowering  plants  are 
divided  by  florists  into  three  principal  classes,  and  each 
class  is  again  subdivided  into  three  more,  as  shown  in 
the  following  table,  with  the  letters  which  are  used  to 
designate  them : 


A.    ANNUALS. 


1  T     I. 

2  //  II.  A. 


3    ff.A 


2. 

B.    BIENNIALS 


Tender  annual 
Half    hardy    a 

nual. 
Hardy  annual,      iff, 


T.  11. 
H.  H.  B. 


Tender  biennial- 
Half  hardy  bien. 

nial. 
Hardy  biennial 


3. 

P.    PERENNIALS. 


T.  P     Tender  perennial. 
H.H.P.  Half     hardy     peren- 
nial. 
HP      'Hardy  perenninl. 


The  word  "  Annual "  is  given  to  those  plants  which 
are  sown  in  the  spring,  bloom  and  ripen  their  seed  in 
the  same  year,  and  soon  after  perish.  A  few  perennials 
that  flower  the  first  year,  like  the  Marvel  of  Peru,  etc.,  are 
included  here  among  annuals,  but  they  are  only  annuals  as 
regards  treatment.  In  cultivating  annuals  observe  under 
which  division  they  come.  Those  called  hardy  annuals 
do  not  require  much  heat  to  either  germinate  them  or  to 
make  them  grow  well — say  about  40°  to  45°,  while  half- 
hardy,  annuals  are  those  that  require  a  little  more  heat — 


84  THE   WINDOW   FLOWER   GARDEN". 

say  10°  to  15°  more.  The  tender  annuals  are  those  that 
require  from  20°  to  30°  more  heat  than  either. 

Biennials  are  those  plants  that  generally  do  not  bloom 
until  the  second  year  after  sowing  the  seed,  and  after 
blooming  die.  These  are  again  subdivided  into  tender, 
half-hardy,  and  hardy,  each  division  requiring  the  tem- 
peratures named  above. 

Perennials  are  plants  which  do  not  generally  bloom  un- 
til the  second  year,  but  continue  to  grow  and  bloom  for 
an  indefinite  number  of  years  in  succession,  and  may  be 
propagated,  after  they  are  once  obtained  from  seed,  by 
division  of  the  roots.  They  generally  grow  more  vigor- 
ously and  flower  better  if  divided,  and  replanted  every 
three  or  four  years.  New  varieties  can  only  be  obtained 
from  seeds. 

Abronia. — From  the  Greek  word  meaning  delicate. 
Nat.  Ord.  Nyctaginacem,  the  Four  0' Clock  Family. 
H.  H.  A.,  about  6  inches  high.  Abronia  umbellata  is 
the  most  common  ;  this  and  others  are  pretty  trailing  or 
creeping  plants,  with  verbena-like  heads  of  sweet-scented 
flowers ;  colors  white,  rosy-lilac,  and  red.  They  are 
natives  of  California,  though  they  were  cultivated  in 
England  in  1823. 

Acroclinium. — The  name  from  the  Greek  for  high  and 
led,  having  reference  to  the  receptacle  upoi  which  the 
florets  are  placed.  Nat.  Ord.  Composites,  the  Composite 
Family.  H.  H.  A.,  about  1  foot.  A  genus  of  beautiful 
"  everlasting "  flowers,  natives  of  South-west  Australia, 
and  requiring  the  same  treatment  as  other  half-hardy 
annuals  ;  colors  rose  and  white,  with  yellow  center  or 
disk.     First  introduced  in  1855. 

Ageratum.— An  ancient  Greek  name  signifying  not 
groiving  old,  and  probably  originally  applied  to  some  of 
the  "Everlastings."  Nat.  Ord.  same  as  the  preceding. 
H.  H.  A.,  12  to  18  inches.  The  species  are  ornamental, 
growing  freely  in  light  rich  soil,  and  are  profuse  bloom- 


FLOWERS  THAT   WILL   GROW   FROM    SEED.  85 

ers  of  various  shades  of  blue  and  lavender  to  white. 
They  are  natives  of  various  countries,  W.  Ind.,  Am., 
Peru,  Mexico, .etc.     First  introduced  in  1714. 

Alyssum,  Sweet.  —  The  name  means  to  allay  rage, 
as  it  was  in  ancient  times  supposed  to  be  a  remedy 
for  hydrophobia.  Nat.  Ord.  Crucifera,  the  Mustard 
Family.  H.  A.,  6  to  8  inches.  Alyssum  maritimum  is 
a  neat  and  interesting  species,  well  adapted  for  orna- 
menting rock-work,  or  the  front  of  plant  stands.  It  is 
a  very  profuse  bloomer,  lasting  all  winter  or  all  summer, 
as  desired  ;  it  will  grow  well  in  any  common  soil.  This 
species,  which  has  white,  sweet-scented  flowers,  was  intro- 
duced in  1700.     Another,  A.  saxatile,  has  yellow  flowers. 

Begonia  (Flowering  Kinds.)  —  Named  in  honor  of 
M.  Begon,  Governor  of  St.  Domingo  some  200  years  ago. 
Nat.  Ord.  Begoniacece,  the  Begonia  Family.  T.  P.,  12 
to  18  inches.  These  plants  are  much  used  for  winter 
flowering,  being  very  prof  use  bloomers.  Some  are  erect, 
while  others  hang  over  the  edges  of  baskets,  etc.  The 
flowers  generally  hang  or  droop  like  those  of  the  Fuchsias  ; 
colors  of  different  shades,  from  white  to  bright  scarlet ; 
they  succeed  best  in  rich  light  soil.  They  were  intro- 
duced in  1777  from  Jamaica. 

Candytuft. — Iberis,  so  named  from  Iberia,  an  old 
name  for  Spain.  Nat.  Ord.  Crucifera,  the  Mustard 
Family.  H.  A.,  about  1  foot.  The  species  are  all  very 
pretty  and  of  easy  culture.  They  are  well  known  in  our 
gardens,  where  they  are  very  effective  and  beautiful  hardy 
annuals,  blooming  as  freely  as  Sweet  Alyssum.  They  are 
fine  for  pot  culture.  They  are  natives  of  various  European 
countries,  and  first  cultivated  in  1596.  Colors  white, 
purple,  and  crimson. 

C anna.— (See  page  66,  fig.  57.)  H.  H.  P.,  2  to  6 
feet.  These  can  be  sown  in  winter  and  grown  in  pots  for 
planting  out  when  the  weather  gets  warm,  or  else  they 
may  be  grown  in  pots  and  plunged  in  the  ground  in  the 


86  THE   WINDOW   FLOWER   GARDEN". 

summer  for  winter  use.  Of  various  colors.  Soak  the  seed 
for  24  hours  previous  to  sowing,  in  luke-warm  water. 

Canary-Bird  Flower. — A  species  of  Tropceolum, 
from  the  Greek  word  for  trophy.  Nat.  Ord.  Geraniacece, 
the  Geranium  Family.  H.  H.  A.,  Climber.  This  species 
of  Tropceolum,  T.  peregrinum,  is  an  exceedingly  orna- 
mental climber,  with  bright  yellow-fringed  flowers,  and 
neat,  finely-divided  foliage  ;  very  pleasing  and  useful  foi 
climbing  at  the  sides  of  windows.  It  grows  easily  from 
seed  and  also  from  cuttings,  in  any  rich  light  soil ;  flow- 
ers yellow,  with  some  resemblance  in  form  to  a  bird. 

Carnation.— (See  page 67.)  H.  P.,  1  to 2  feet.  The 
Carnation,  if  sown  in  the  room  or  window  in  winter  in 
boxes,  and  when  large  enough,  potted  into  small  pots,  can 
be  planted  in  the  garden  early  in  the  spring,  and  will 
bloom  that  summer.  Or  else  cut  off  the  flowers,  plunge  in 
pots  in  the  beds,  and  use  the  plants  in  fall  for  winter 
flowering.     Colors,  various. 

Centaurea. — (Seepage  75.)  Centaurea  candidissima 
and  others  will  make  fine  plants  if  grown  from  seed.  It 
is  very  difficult  for  amateurs  to  propagate  them  from  cut- 
tings or  slips. 

Dianthus. — Both  Carnations  (see  page  67)  and  Pinks 
belong  to  the  genus  Dianthus  (from  the  Greek  meaning 
Jove's  Flower).  Nat.  Ord.  Caryophyllacece,  the  Pink 
Family.  H.  A.  and  H.  P.,  1  foot.  This  genus  em- 
braces some  very  popular  flowers,  which  bloom  freely  and 
are  much  used  for  bouquets.  They  deserve  a  place  in 
the  window.  If  raised  from  seed,  and  the  flowers  are 
clipped  off,  the  plants  may  be  used  for  bedding  in  the 
garden.  Chinese  Pinks,  so  well  known,  belong  to  this 
genus.  First  introduced  in  1573.  Flowers  of  various 
colors. 

Geraniums  (see  page  68). — These  popular  plants  are 
indispensable  to  every  garden,  but  are  more  admired  as 
pot  plants.     Propagating  from  seed  is  the  only  way  to 


FLOWERS  THAT  WILL  GROW  FROM  SEED.      87 

obtain  new  and  superior  varieties.  The  seed  may  be 
sown  at  any  time  during  the  year,  but  the  best  seasons 
are  March  and  September.  Sow  in  pans  or  boxes  filled 
with  a  mixture  of  good  loam,  leaf  mould,  and  sand,  or 
street  sweepings,  covering  the  seed  thinly.  Colors 
various. 

Ice  Plant. — This  belongs  to  the  genus  Mesembryan- 
themum  (from  the  Greek  words  meaning  Mid-day  flower). 
Nat.  Ord.  Mesembryanthemea,  the  Fig-Marigold  Family. 
This  is  a  very  large  genus,  one  species  of  which,  M.  crys- 
tallinum,  is  called  the  Ice  Plant,  as  its  trailing  stems  and 
its  leaves  are  covered  with  little  crystalline  swellings  or 
excrescences,  giving  the  plant  the  appearance  of  being 
covered  with  a  film  of  ice.  It  grows  well  in  any  light, 
rich  soil.     From  Greece,  in  1775. 

Ipomo3A. — Ipomcea  coccinia,  a  name  made  from  the 
Greek  words  meaning  resembling  Bindweed.  Nat.  Ord. 
Convolvulacece,  the  Morning  -  Glory  Family.  A  large 
genus,  the  species  here  referred  to  being  I.  coccinia,  the 
Star  Ipomoea,  a  most  beautiful  climber,  and  well  adapted 
for  the  window,  for  columns,  and  also  for  trellis- work, 
where  its  beautiful,  bright  scarlet  flowers  make  a  lovely 
appearance.  It  thrives  in  loam  and  peat,  mixed  with  a 
little  manure.     T.  A.     Native  East  Indies,  1823. 

Lobelia. — Named  in  honor  of  M.  Lobel,  a  herbalist 
of  the  17th  century.  Nat.  Ord.  Lobeliacem,  the  Lobelia 
Family.  The  genus  includes  both  annuals  and  peren- 
nials. The  common  greenhouse  Lobelias  are  referred 
to  here,  and  are  mainly  derived  from  L.  Erinus,  a  native 
of  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope.  It  is  an  annual,  which  may  be 
continued  by  cuttings  like  a  perennial.  About  6  inches 
high.  Very  beautiful,  mostly  dwarf-growing  plants ; 
their  delicate  drooping  habit,  and  the  profusion  of  their 
charming  little  blue  and  white  flowers,  rendering  them 
exceedingly  ornamental  for  Vases  or  Hanging-Baskets. 

Mignonette. — Reseda,  from   resedo,  to  assuage,  the 


8H  THE  WINDOW   FLOWER   GARDEN". 

ancients  regarding  it  as  medicinal.  Nat.  Ord.  Resedacece, 
the  Mignonette  Family.  The  Mignonette,  R.  odorata, 
is  an  old  and  universal  favorite,  on  account  of  the  very 
delightful  fragrance  which  its  flowers  so  freely  give  off. 
If  well  thinned  out,  the  plants  will  grow  stronger  and 
produce  larger  spikes  of  blooms  than  when  crowded. 
Set  out  from  four  to  six  small  plants  in  a  4  or  5-inch 
pot  for  the  window,  and  cut  off  the  first  flowering  stalk, 
in  order  to  make  the  plants  strong  and  bushy.  It  was 
first  introduced  from  Italy,  in  1752. 

Nasturtiums,  Tall. — Tropceolum  may  us  (see  Canary- 
Bird  Flower,  page  86).  H.  A.,  Climber.  The  many 
varieties  will  do  well  in  any  sandy  soil  not  over  rich,  and 
are  very  ornamental  for  climbing  up  the  sides  of  windows. 
Cut  the  main  runner  if  it  grows  too  long,  which  will 
cause  the  plants  to  branch  more  freely.  Remove  all 
flowers  as  they  fade  to  make  them  bloom  better. 

Nasturtiums,  Dwarf. — Tropceolum  minus  (see  the 
preceding).  H.  A.,  1  foot.  The  numerous  varieties  are 
very  pretty  and  free  blooming  plants  of  dwarf  habit,  and 
therefore  well  adapted  for  Hanging- Baskets,  Stands,  and 
Vases,  which  they  beautify  by  hanging  down  the  sides 
and  covering  them  with  a  mass  of  light-green  leaves  and 
beautiful  bright  flowers.  The  flowers  are  white,  yellow, 
orange,  crimson,  and  scarlet ;  some  have  a  combination  of 
two  or  more  colors,  and  some  have  darker  leaves.  Give 
them  plenty  of  sun,  and  treat  the  same  as  the  tall  kinds. 
If  any  variety  is  raised  from  seed  that  is  particularly 
desirable,  it  can  be  propagated  easily  from  slips  or 
cuttings. 

Nemophila. — From  the  Greek  words  meaning  grove 
and  to  love  ;  hence  the  plants  are  sometimes  called  Love- 
grove.  Nat.  Ord.  Hydrophyllacecs,  the  Waterleaf  Family. 
H.  A.,  1  foot.  This  is  a  genus  of  very  pretty  annuals., 
all  of  which  are  well  worth  cultivating.  They  grow  and 
flower  best  in  a  moist,  shaded  situation,  and  in  a  peaty 


FLOWERS  THAT  WILL   GROW    FROM   SEED.  89 

or  vegetable  soil.  They  are  of  a  very  neat,  compact,  uni- 
form °habi,t  of  growth,  and  comprise  varied  and  beautiful 
colors.  They  bloom  freely,  and  are  well  adapted  for 
Baskets,  Vases,  or  Stands. 

Pansy.—  Viola  tricolor  (see  Violet,  page  73),  also  called 
Heartsease,  and  by  several  other  names.  IT.  P.,  6  inches. 
This  lovely  flower,  a  favorite  with  every  one,  is  too  well 
known  to  need  any  description.  Nothing  can  be  more 
effective.  It  is  admirably  adapted  for  pot  culture,  for 
the  decoration  of  the  conservatory  or  window  during  the 
winter  and  spring  months  ;  but  the  flowers  dwindle  in 
size  as  the  warm  weather  appears.  It  is  best  to  keep 
the  plants  in  a  cool  place,  with  plenty  of  sun.  Seeds 
sown  in  spring  should  be  prevented  from  blossoming 
until  late  in  the  fall,  by  picking  off  the  buds  as  fast  as 
they  appear  during  the  summer  months.  This  will  cause 
the  plants  to  grow  bushy  and  compact,  and  they  will 
bloom  profusely  during  the  late  autumn  and  early  spring 
months.  Grow  in  pots,  as  shown  in  Chapter  XVIII. 
Seeds  sown  in  August  or  September,  and  the  plants  kept 
in  a  cool  place  in  the  window  all  winter,  can  be  planted 
in  the  garden  in  the  spring,  and  will  bloom  freely  the 
whole  spring  until  hot  weather. 

Petunia.— The  Brazilian  name  for  Tobacco  is  Petun  ; 
applied  to  this  genus  because  of  its  affinity  with  Tobacco. 
There  is  scarcely  a  genus  of  plants  to  equal  the  Petunia. 
The  plants  bloom  freely,  and  are  of  the  easiest  culture. 
Being  very  effective  and  beautiful  when  grown  in  pots, 
they  are  well  adapted  for  decorating  the  window  or  con- 
servatory. Sow  as  directed  in  Chapter  XXII.,  and  pot 
singly  in  small  pots  ;  re-pot  as  needed.  Pinch  off  the 
leading  stem  to  make  the  plants  more  bushy.  The 
single  Striped  and  Blotched  varieties  bloom  more  freely 
and  have  finer  colors  than  the  double.  For  winter  use, 
sow  in  June  and  cultivate  all  summer,  as  directed  in 


90  THE   WINDOW   FLOWER   GARDEN. 

Chapter  XVIII.  They  will  thrive  in  any  good,  rich  soil, 
and  should  have  plenty  of  sun. 

Primula,  Primrose. — From  primus,  the  first,  in  ref- 
erence to  the  early  flowering  of  the  plants.  Nat.  Ord. 
Primulacece,  the  Primrose  Family.  T.  P.,  6  to  8  inches. 
The  genus  is  a  large  one.  The  Primulas  most  common  in 
greenhouse  and  window  culture  are  varieties  of  P.  Sinen- 
sis, the  Chinese  Primrose.  These  charming  plants  may  be 
brought  to  the  highest  perfection  by  the  simplest  means. 
It  is  a  great  point  to  give  them  a  long  period  of  growth 
before  allowing  them  to  flower.  Hence  they  should  never 
be  subjected  to  a  forcing  temperature,  and,  in  fact,  should 
be  treated  as  nearly  hardy,  though  they  should  have 
ample  protection  against  frost,  dampness,  and  cutting 
winds.  In  order  to  enjoy  the  bloom  of  these  Primulas 
for  a  long  period,  make  at  least  two  sowings  of  seed,  the 
first  in  March,  and  the  second  in  May  to  July.  Sow  in 
a  rich,  fine,  light  soil,  and  cover  with  a  mere  dusting  of 
fine  earth,  and  every  seed  will  germinate.  If  buried 
deeply,  much  will  be  lost.  It  is  best  to  sow  the  seed  in 
shallow  boxes,  instead  of  seed  pans,  as  those  absorb  the 
moisture  from  the  soil  around  the  edge,  and  if  the  seeds 
once  get  dry  after  they  have  been  soaked  through,  they 
will  never  vegetate.  When  large  enough,  transplant  in 
small  pots,  and  re-pot  as  needed.  Always  use  light  soil, 
mixed  with  sand,  leaf  mould,  and  street  sweepings.  The 
seeds  take  some  time  to  germinate,  and  after  once  re- 
potting all  that  are  up,  you  will  later  on  find  that  more 
are  coming.  There  are  many  varieties,  of  which  fimbriata 
alba,  white,  and  fimbriata  rubra,  red,  or  rose,  are  the  best. 

Sweet  William. — Dianthus  barbatus  (see  Carnation, 
page  67).  H.  P.,  18  inches.  Very  beautiful  plants,  of 
extreme  richness  and  diversity  of  colors.  Sow  the  seed 
in  the  summer  in  shallow  boxes,  and  grow  in  pots,  as 
directed  in  Chapter  XVIII.,  or  sow  them  in  boxes  in 
the  window,  and  grow  them  in  small  pots.     Plant  in  the 


FLOWERS  THAT  WILL   GROW   FROM   SEED.  M 

garden  border,  and  they  will ^  bloom  the  first -season 
which,  otherwise,  like  most  other  perennials,  they  wdl 
^otdo'if  not  started  in  the  winter.     They  are  peri  ctty 
hardy,  and  need  only  a  slight  covering  out-door,  foi  the 

WiSTor0KS-TES  Weeks. -Matthiola,  named  in  honor  of 
JEE  naturalist,  J««*  Nat  OjjL*^ 
the  Mustard  Family,  tf.  ^-,  1  f°ot-  Stocks  may  be 
wn  at  almost  any  time,  in  fact  in  every  --**£ 
vear  For  early  winter  blooming  m  pots,  sow  the  seed 
fnAucn  st  and  September,  and  re-pot  as  needed  bearing 
Z  mhld  that  they  are  nearly  hardy.  For  a  grand  bed  of 
Sand  an  early  bloom,  sow  in  February  and  plant 
them  out  when  the  weather  is  settled. 

Thitwrfroia  —Named  in  honor  of  1  Imnberg,  a 
Sw™botIutSt.  Nat.  <*d.*-A~*  the  Acanthus 
rlmi  r  ^-.Climber.  Thunlergia  alata,  with its  many 
vaTeties  is  a  very  oruamental,  free-blooming  climber  of 
ramd  growth,  handsome  foliage,  and  much-admired 
flo  ers  It  is  useful  for  a  conservatory  or  a  warm  situa- 
tion in  the  window.  Pot  first  into  sandy  loam  ana  peat 
afterwards  use  a  good  portion  of  old  lime  rubbish  which 
will  cause  masses  of  blooms  to  be  thrown  up.  Sow  m 
boxes  as  already  recommended  for  seeds. 

TKOP-*OLUM:-See  Nasturtium,  page  88,  where  it  is 
stated  that  the  Tall  Nasturtium  is  »*<^"*£ 
and  the  Dwarf  Nasturtium  is  T.  minus.  These  plant,, 
a  o  dinarily  raised  from  seeds,  are  called  Nasturtiums, 
but  tJere  are  several  choice  varieties  of  these,  and  some 
related  climbing  species,  such  as  T.  Lobbianum,  that 
florists  always  call  Tropaeohms,  by  the  way  of  indicating 
that  they  are  finer  than  the  common  garden  kinds.  But 
t  ither  name  they  are  most  useful  in  the  window  o 
conservatory,  where,  if  given  a  sunny  place,  they  will 
bloom  profusely  all  winter. 

Verbena. -An  ancient  Latin  name  for  some  sacred 


93  THE   WINDOW   FLOWER   GARDEN. 

herb.  Nat.  Ord.  Verbenaceae,  the  Verbena  Family.  A 
large  genus  of  annual  and  perennial  herbs,  some  of  which 
are  coarse  and  unsightly  weeds  ;  others  are  among 
our  most  beautiful  and  popular  flowering  plants.  Our 
garden  Verbenas  are  derived  from  V.  cliamaedrifolia,  and 
several  other  South  American  species,  which  have  been 
hybridized  and  crossed  until  the  origin  of  any  particu- 
lar variety  is  difficult  to  trace.  Scarcely  a  plant  is  more 
popular  than  the  Verbena,  and  it  is  too  well  known  to 
need  a  description.  It  is  one  of  the  most  useful  plants 
for  summer  decoration.  Where  Verbenas  are  required 
in  quantities,  they  are  more  easily  obtained  from  seed 
than  by  cuttings.  Besides,  in  raising  seedlings,  there  is 
a  chance  of  obtaining  new  varieties.  It  is  by  raising 
seedlings  that  the  leading  florists  obtain  their  new 
varieties  for  which  they  charge  an  extra  price.  If 
seeds  are  sown  in  January  or  February,  the  plants, 
when  large  enough,  potted  in  small  pots  and  kept 
in  a  cool  temperature  of  say  40°  in  the  day,  with 
35°  or  33°  or  less  at  night,  will  make  fine  plants 
for  the  garden  in  spring,  and  bloom  all  summer  pro- 
fusely. For  Verbenas  to  bloom  in  the  window  or  con- 
servatory in  the  winter,  sow  them  from  July  and  August 
to  September,  and  re-pot  as  needed.  I  have  had  a  fine 
plant  in  a  6-inch  pot  hanging  down  from  the  ceiling, 
which  was  a  perfect  mass  of  rich  scarlet  blooms  all  winter. 
Verbenas  require  good  rich  soil  and  plenty  of  sun. 

Wallflower. — Cheiranthus,  an  Arabic  name.  Nat. 
Ord.  Cruciferae,  the  Mustard  Family.  H.  H.  P.,  2 
feet.  The  well-known  Wallflower,  O.  Cheiri,  from 
Southern  Europe,  has  been  in  cultivation  for  centuries, 
and  is  everywhere  valued  for  the  fragrance  of  its  flowers. 
Treatment  the  same  as  for  Stocks. 

In  addition  to  the  plants  enumerated  above  there  are 
many  more  that  can  be  grown  in  window  culture,  and 
from  seed  ;  and  the  list  may  be  greatly  enlarged  accord- 


LILIES,    THEIR   CULTIVATION".  93 

ing  to  one's  taste.  Annuals  need  not  be  sown  so  early 
as  perennials,  as  they  grow  very  quickly  after  the  seeds 
are  sown,  and  bloom  in  a  very  short  time,  while  the 
perennials  do  not.  Therefore,  for  winter  blooming, 
always  sow  the  seeds  of  perennials  in  the  months  of 
August  or  September,  and  for  summer  blooming  about 
January  to  February. 

Sow  annuals  about  six  weeks  before  you  wish  them  to 
bloom.  In  other  words,  if  you  wish  to  have  a  fine  box  of 
Mignonette,  Candytuft,  or  other  annuals,  in  bloom  for 
Christmas  or  New  Year's,  the  seeds  must  be  sown  in 
boxes  or  pans,  or  whatever  else  is  to  hold  them,  about 
the  first  or  second  week  in  November ;  better  a  little 
earlier  than  later.  If  they  are  found  to  be  behind  time, 
give  them  a  little  more  heat  so  as  to  force  them  on. 

As  it  is  easier  for  amateurs  to  propagate  plants  from 
seeds,  I  should  recommend  this  as  the  best  and  also  quick- 
est method  in  which  to  raise  a  large  number  of  plants 
with  but  little  outlay.  In  this  way,  by  commencing  in 
February  or  March,  you  can  raise  all  the  plants  that  will 
be  needed  for  planting  in  the  garden  in  spring,  and  they 
will  give  all  the  more  pleasure  from  being  grown  by  your- 
self. 


CHAPTER     XXXIV. 

LILIES,  THEIR  CULTIVATION. 

For  grace,  beauty,  purity  and  fragrance,  the  genus 
L ilium  is  equalled  by  no  other.  No  description  can 
convey  a  true  idea  of  their  loveliness.  The  artist  who 
attempts  to  portray  their  beauty  is  sure  to  fail  to  do  them 
justice.  The  Lily  has  always  been  revered  and  loved  ;  as 
we  see  it  mentioned  in  the  history  of  all  ages,  and  it  is 
to-day  the  most  popular  hardy  plant  in  cultivation. 

For  many  years  the  Lily  has  had  a  great  run  of  popu- 


94  THE  WINDOW   FLOWER   GARDEN. 

larity  in  Europe,  but  it  is  only  recently  that  it  has  re- 
ceived special  attention  in  this  country.  Previous  to 
1879,  few  growers  or  dealers  here  possessed  more  than  a 
dozen  species  or  varieties,  arid  little  or  nothing  was 
known  of  the  many  rare  and  beautiful  species  in  culti- 
vation in  European  gardens.  Grand  and  noble  species, 
which  a  few  years  ago  were  comparatively  unknown,  now 
adorn  our  home  gardens  throughout  the  length  and 
breadth  of  the  land,  and  in  a  few  years  more  we  may  ex- 
pect to  see  most  of  the  finer  species  and  varieties  in 
general  cultivation. 

The  greatest  need  now  of  our  people  as  regards  the 
culture  of  the  Lily,  is  a  thorough  knowledge  of  its  re- 
quirements. No  plants  do  better  under  proper  treat- 
ment, and  none  do  worse  when  treated  improperly.  Al- 
though most  of  the  species  succeed  well  with  ordinary 
garden  culture,  a  little  good  management  will  produce 
marvellous  results — but  we  have  yet  many  things  to  learn 
concerning  them,  and  perhaps  the  most  important  is,  to 
patiently  wait  for  them  to  get  well  established,  before  we 
expect  them  to  produce  the  best  results. 

One  should  not  pet  and  nurse  them  for  the  first  six 
months  or  a  year  after  they  have  been  planted,  and  then, 
leaving  them  to  care  for  themselves,  complain  because 
they  do  not  grow  larger  and  faster.  They  need  steady 
and  continued  care. 

CULTURE. 

A  volume  might  be  written  on  the  cultivation  of  Lilies 
and  still  leave  the  planter  in  doubt  as  to  what  course  to 
adopt.  What  might  do  well  with  one  species,  may  prove 
fatal  with  others,  which  require  a  different  soil  or  climate. 
However,  if  the  following  points  are  carefully  observed, 
the  planter  can  expect  good  success  with  nearly  or  quite 
all  the  species. 

These  conditions  are  by  no  means  always  necessary  to 


LILIES,    THEIR   CULTIVATION. 


95 


attain  good  success,  for  many  roots  will  grow  anywhere, 
as  freely  as  potatoes ;  but  it  is  best  to  be  on  the  safe 
side  and  give  all  varieties  good  care,   attending  to  the 

following  points  :  ,--,,*-« 

1st.—  As  a  rule  the  bulbs  should  be  planted  5  or  6 

inches  deep,  in  mellow,  well  pulverized  rich  soil. 

2nd.— The  drainage  should  be  such,  that  all  surface 

water  will  run  off  easily.     Nothing  will  injure  bulbs  more 

than  stagnant  water  around  them.     They  should  also 

have  good  bottom  drainage. 

3n/._The  soil  should  be  kept  clear  of  weeds,  and  well 

worked.  -- 

4^. —It  is  not  advisable  to  transplant  the  bulbs  oftener 
than  cncein  four  years,  for  unless  their  new  quarters  are 
much  superior  to  the  old,  they  will  do  far  better  if  left 
undisturbed. 

5th.—  Bulbs  should  not  be  planted  on  freshly  manured 
soil,  and  artificial  fertilizers  should  never  be  used.  Old, 
well  pulverized  manure  is  desirable  to  mix  with  the  soil 
in  small  quantities  when  planting,  or  for  the  top-dressing 

in  after  years.  .■„.•",  *    « 

Mh.  —Mulching  in  hot  weather  is  desirable,  and  all 
flowers  should  be  cut  off  as  soon  as  they  fade,  as  they  will 
exhaust  the  plant  by  forming  seed. 

Wi.—  Stable  manure  should  be  used  with  leaves  or 
other  coarse  litter  in  covering  the  bed  in  winter. 

GROWING  LILIES  IN  FRAMES. 

If  the  choice  varieties  are  to  be  cultivated  to  any  great 
extent,  the  frame  method  is  very  desirable,  especially  if 
mice  or  moles  disturb  the  bulbs.  Frames  can  be  con- 
structed of  any  length  and  breadth  desired,  and  of  the 
roughest  and  cheapest  boards.  The  frame  should  extend 
12  to  18  inches  below  the  surface  of  the  ground  and  6  to 
12  inches  above.  This  depth  will  obstruct  the  subter- 
ranean passage  of  mice  and  moles,  and  to  a  great  extent 


96  THE   WINDOW   FLOWER   GARDEN. 

will  keep  out  the  roots  of  trees,  shrubs,  etc.  Dig  out 
the  soil  to  the  depth  of  two  feet,  and  fill  in  with  sandy 
loam,  mixed  with  a  small  quantity  of  well-rotted  stable 
or  barnyard  manure.  Covers,  light  board  shutters, 
should  be  provided  and  kept  on  all  winter,  and  during 
storms  in  the  autumn  or  early  spring.  This  protection 
will  be  of  great  benefit  to  some  kinds,  which  are  sensitive 
to  excessive  wet  during  the  winter  season.  The  frame 
method  is  by  far  the  best  for  all  the  rare  and  expensive 
varieties,  as  they  can,  in  that  way,  be  grown  with  the 
greatest  success. 

INSECTS. 

Above  ground  Lilies  are  seldom  attacked  by  insects,  ex- 
cept under  glass.  I  know  of  no  class  of  plants  so  generally 
shunned  by  all  the  destructive  garden  pests.  The  bulbs, 
however,  sometimes  suffer  from  the  attacks  of  worms, 
which  eat  them,  making  a  cavity,  which  in  wet  spells  fills 
with  water  and  causes  them  to  decay.  As  manure  at- 
tracts worms,  it  should  not  be  used  to  mix  with  the  soil, 
unless  it  is  old  and  well  pulverized,  and  then  not  in  too 
great  a  quantity.  The  Green-fly  or  Aphis  often  attacks 
Lilies  under  glass,  but  this  is  easily  exterminated  by  the 
use  of  Fir-tree  Oil. 

WHEN  TO  PLANT  LILIES. 

A  great  deal  of  failure  is  due  to  planting  bulbs  at  im- 
proper seasons.  The  time  recommended  as  being  the 
best  is  the  months  of  October,  November,  March  and 
April.  Many  fail  from  planting  late  in  the  spring  after 
the  weather  has  become  hot  and  dry,  which  causes  the 
bulbs  to  decay  before  they  can  form  roots  and  commence 
growth.  Of  course,  where  the  climate  will  permit,  bulbs 
can  be  planted  at  any  time  during  the  winter,  but  if  it 
can  be  done  in  the  Autumn,  it  would  no  doubt  be  better. 


LILIES.    THEIR   CULTIVATION.  97 

Bulbs  should  always  be  planted  as  soon  as  received,  or 
packed  in  soil  until  planting  time.  Nothing  injures 
them  more  than  to  be  exposed  to  the  air,  or  to  lay  around 
in  a  dry  state. 

HOW  TO  KEEP  AND  COLLECT  BULBS. 

Lily  bulbs  should  not  be  kept  out  of  the  soil  for  any 
length  of  time.  If  you  have  them  on  hand,  and  are  not 
ready  to  plant  them,  they  should  be  kept  in  pots  or  boxes 
of  soil  slightly  moist,  or  what  is  better,  if  it  can  be  had, 
well  pulverized  leaf  mould  from  the  woods.  They  should 
be  kept  in  a  cool  cellar  or  pit.  Care  should  be  taken  that 
the  soil  is  not  too  wet,  for  if  so,  it  will  encourage  the 
bulbs  to  commence  to  grow.  In  this  way  bulbs  can  be 
kept  all  winter,  if  necessary,  in  excellent  condition. 

The  fact  that  wild  lilies  are  not  easily  found,  except 
while  in  bloom,  makes  it  quite  necessary  that  they  should 
be  collected  at  that  time.  This  can  be  done  without 
greatly  injuring  them,  if  the  bulbs  are  carefully  lifted, 
and  the  stems  cut  off  close  to  the  bulb,  which  should  be 
at  once  buried,  or  planted  in  good  soil,  if  wanted  for 
shipping,  or  for  permanent  planting  in  autumn. 

FORCING  LILIES. 

The  only  Lilies  which  can  be  recommended  for  early 
forcing,  are  L.candidum,  L.  longiflorum,  and  its  varieties, 
the  most  valuable  of  which  is  L.  longiflorum  Harrisii. 
To  force  them,  work  should  be  commenced  in  September, 
by  potting  strong  healthy  bulbs  in  six  inch  pots  of  rich 
soil.  The  pots  should  be  plunged  in  the  ground,  and 
covered  with  a  few  inches  of  soil,  to  prevent  drying  out 
and  freezing.  In  November  or  December  they  should  be 
brought  in  and  placed  in  a  warm,  sunny  situation,  where 
they  will  at  once  commence  growth,  and  will  flower  in 
February  and   March.     Water   should    be   given  freely 


98  THE    WINDOW  FLOWER   GARDEN. 

while  growing,  and  it  will  be  a  good  plan  to  syringe  them 
every  day.  In  a  well  kept  greenhouse,  Lilies  treated  in 
this  manner  will  be  quite  sure  to  succeed.  We  have 
often  known  them  to  do  well  in  a  window  garden,  but  if 
they  are  obliged  to  grow  in  a  dry  and  dusty  atmosphere, 
little  success  can  be  expected ;  all  kinds  of  Lilies  can  be 
potted  in  the  manner  above  described,  and  brought  into 
the  greenhouse  in  February,  where  they  will  bloom  in 
May,  or  perhaps  some  sorts  will  flower  earlier. 

BLIGHT  ON  LILIES. 

Some  complain  that  many  of  their  Lilies  drop  their 
leaves  and  die  down  just  at  the  time  when  they  are  about 
to  come  into  bud.  This  has  never  been  observed  among 
the  common  kinds,  like  the  Speciosum,  Tigrinum,  Urn- 
iellatum,  Longiflorum,  etc.,  and  it  occurs  chiefly  among 
the  Calif ornian  and  some  foreign  species.  It  appears  the 
first  year.  If  they  are  planted  at  a  proper  depth,  and  in 
a  partly  sheltered  situation  where  the  full  rays  of  the  hot 
sun  will  not  strike  them  all  day,  they  will  not  likely 
be  attacked  by  blight  after  the  first  year,  and  never  after 
the  bulb  has  become  established  and  healthy.  When  the 
first  appearance  of  the  disease  is  observed,  the  Lilies 
can  usually  be  saved  by  shading  and  dusting  them  a 
few  times  with  flowers  of  sulphur. 

LILIES  THAT  ARE  EASILY  GROWN. 

For  the  benefit  of  many  who  wish  only  a  small  variety, 
and  desire  the  most  robust  and  hardy  kinds,  which  will 
do  well  in  any  ordinary  garden,  with  a  little  care,  I  sub- 
mit the  folio  wing  list,  all  of  which  are  fine,  hardy,  robust 
sorts,  which  will  succeed  in  almost  any  climate  and  situ- 
ation from  the  hottest  to  the  coldest. 

L.  auratum  (the  Golden-Banded  Lily),  has  been  con- 
sidered by  many  a  very  difficult  sort  to  grow,  but  the 
whole  trouble  is  owing  to  the  unhealthy  imported  bulbs. 


LILIES,    THEIR   CULTIVATION-.  99 

But  with  strong,  home    grown   bulbs  it  is  one  of  the 
surest  of  all  Lilies  to  do  well. 

L.  Maximoioiczii, 

L.  Fbmponium  vei'um, 

L.  speciosum, 

L.  tenuifolium 

L.  superbum 

L.  tigrinum,  and  all  its  varieties. . . 
L.  umbcllatum,  and  all  its  varieties  . 
L .  Wallacei 


L.  atiratum,  and  its  varieties.  . . . 

L.  Batemannice 

L.  candidum,  and  its  varieties  . . . 

L.  croceum 

L.  elegans,  and  its  varieties 

L.  Hansoni 

L.  Leichtlini 

L.  longijlorum,  and  its  varieties, . 
L.  Martagon,  and  its  varieties, .. . 


Lilium  auratum. — This  species  grows  from  two  to  six 
feet  high  ;  leaves,  long  and  narrow  ;  bulb  large,  yellow- 
ish brown ;  flowers  from  two  to  fifty  in  number,  and 
eight  to  ten  inches  in  diameter,  pure  white,  with  deep 
or  light  yellow  bands  through  centre  of  each  petal, 
which  are  surrounded  with  small  crimson  or  brownish 
spots.  The  color  of  the  bands  and  the  number  of  spots 
vary  greatly.  No  two  flowers  are  alike  ;  blooms  in  July 
or  August.  Should  be  planted  6  inches  deep,  in  rich 
soil  without  manure.  They  succeed  best  in  a  dryish, 
well  drained  soil.  It  has  been  thoroughly  proved  that 
L.  auratum  does  better  here  than  in  Japan,  its  home, 
where  it  growTs  wild  among  the  hills  and  woods  so  abun- 
dant in  some  places,  as  to  nearly  cover  the  whole  ground. 
It  is  perfectly  hardy,  standing  the  severest  winters  in 
the  New  England  States  without  injury.  With  im- 
ported bulbs  about  half  will  fail  to  grow,  and  those  that 
do  grow,  will  require  two  years  to  become  established. 

Home-grown  bulbs  are  the  hardiest,  healthiest,  and  in 
every  way  the  best.  The  auratum,  like  most  other 
Lilies,  succeeds  admirably  when  grown  in  pots.  The  fol- 
lowing are  the  particulars  of  the  specimen  illustrated  in 
the  Gardener's  Chronicle,  of  London,  February  15th, 
1873: 

"A  single  bulb,  measuring  two  inches  in  diameter, 
was  obtained  early  in  1865.  It  was  potted  in  a  7-inch 
pot,  and  placed  in  a  cool  greenhouse,  where  it  produced 
three  flowers  on  one  stem.     In  1866  it  was  repotted  in  a 


100 


THE   WINDOW   FLOWER   GARDEN. 


9-inch  pot,  and  received  similar  treatment ;  the  plant 
threw  up  two  stems,  producing  altogether  17  flowers.  In 


Fig.   67. — LILIUM   AURATUM. 

1867  it  was  again  re-potted,  into  a  11-inch  pot,  where  it 
threw  up  three  stems,  which  bore  fifty-three  flowers.    In 


LILIES,    THEIR   CULTIVATION".  101 

1868,  it  was  shifted  into  a  16-inch  pot ;  it  threw  nj. 
twelve  stems,  producing  altogether  100  flowers.  In  1869 
it  was  placed  in  a  17-inch  pot,  and  threw  up  thirty-nine 
flowering  stems,  from  two  to  nine  feet  in  height,  which 
produced  193  flowers.  The  next  year  the  bulbs  were  left 
undisturbed,  and  threw  up  forty-three  stems  with  208 
flowers." 

The  following  are  the  most  distinct  varieties  of  L. 
auratum : 

Rubro-vittatum. —  Flowers  of  pure  ivory  white- 
ness, with  broad  crimson  bands  and  numerous  crim- 
son spots,  which  are  large  and  vivid. 

Cruentum. — A  dwarf  form  with  large  flowers,  the 
bands  of  which  are  narrow,  darkening  to  the  center ; 
spots  purplish  crimson. 

Pictum. — The  lower  third  of  the  petal  marked  with 
a  broad  red  streak,  not  a  very  distinct  variety. 

Rubro-pictum. — Bands  yellow  on  the  lower  half  of 
the  petal  and  light  crimson  at  the  apex.  Spots  also 
crimson. 

Emperor. — The  eye  is  golden  yellow  and  the  whole 
flower,  except  the  margin  of  petal,  is  suffused  with 
a  rich  blood-red  tint.  As  in  Speciosum-rubrum, 
spots  and  blotches  also  appear  of  a  darker  color,  A 
very  distinct  and  beautiful  form. 

Virginale. — Colors  only  yellow  and  white,  the 
spots  and  band  being  all  yellow. 

Witt  ex. — Petals  broad  and  short ;  in  other  respects 
nearly  the  same  as  Virginale. 

Macranthum. — This  variety  is  said  to  have  larger 
and  broader  petals  than  any  other  form. 
Lilium  Batemannt^;. — Three  to  four  feet  high  ;  flow- 
ers, three  to  twelve  in  number,  erect  and  of  a  deep 
apricot  tint,  unspotted  ;  a  native  of  Japan,  and  blooms  in 
August.  A  new  Lily  of  great  merit.  It  is  probably  a 
garden  hybrid  between  some  such  species  as  L.  Leichtlini, 


102  THE  WINDOW   FLOWER   GARDEN". 

L.  Maximowiczi,  or  L.  elegans.  In  general  habit  it 
greatly  resembles  L.  Leichtlini.  It  was  named  and  in- 
troduced into  England  in  1875,  by  Dr.  Wallace,  and  has 


Fig.  68.— LILIUM   BROVVNII. 

since  become  very  popular.  It  is  as  easy  to  grow  as  the 
old  Tiger  Lily,  thriving  in  all  soils  or  climates,  in  shade 
or  sun,  or  in  moist  or  dry  soil.     It  will  stand  any  degree 


LILIES,    THEIR   CULTIVATION. 


103 


of  frost  without  injury,  even  if  not  protected  m  the 
least      A  highly  valuable  sort  for  general  cultivation. 

Lilium  Brownii.— Two  feet  high,  bearing  from  one 
to  three  flowers,  six  inches  in  length,  pure  white  inside, 
outside  a  rich  chocolate  brown,  very  fragrant.     A  native 
of  China,  and  flowers  in  July.     There  is  much  uncer- 
tainty as  to  the  true  name  of    this  magnificent  Lily 
Some  call  it  L.  Japonicum,  others  L.  Brownii,  and  still 
others  say  that  the  two  names  represent  two  distinct 
species       L.   Brownii  has  been  considered   by  some  a 
very  difficult  species  to  grow,  whereas  the  whole  secret 
of  success  is  in  getting  healthy  bulbs,  which  are  not  al- 
ways easily  procured,  as  the  demand  in  this  country  is 
mostly   supplied  with   imported   bulbs,   which    seldom 
arrive  in  good  condition,    as  they  are  very  sensitive  to 
rou-h  handling  and  to  being  kept  long  out  of  the  ground. 
With  good  home-grown  bulbs,  or  those  which  have  been 
properly  imported,  the  amateur  can  expect  good  success. 
Lilium  caotidum  (White  Lily).-Three  to  four  feet 
hign ;   flowers  of   the  purest  white,  and  from  four  to 
twenty  in  number  ;    very  fragrant ;    blooms  m  June  ;  a 
native  of   Southern   Europe.     This   is   the   well-known 
Easter  Lily,  which  has  been  in  cultivation  for  300  years. 
A  very  hardy  and  robust  species,  growing  well  m  any 
situation,  and  its  pure,  sweet  flowers  are  always  greatly 
admired.     One  of   the  most  valuable  for  forcing.     Its 

varieties  are  :  ., 

Maculatum-striatum.  —  Flowers    streaked    with 

purple  on  the  outside. 

Peregrinum.—A  slender  grower  with  purple  stems 
and  narrow  leaves.     Not  much  cultivated. 

Leuco-marginatum.— Foliage  has  a  broad  golden 
margin  ;  flowers  of  the  purest  ivory  whiteness. 

Flore-pleno  (speratum  monstrosum).—A  double- 
flowered  form  of  but  little  value. 

Speoiosum.—A  smaller  and  earlier  variety.. 


104  THE   WINDOW   FLOWER   GARDEN. 

Lilium  loistgieloeum. — Two  to  three  feet  high,  and 
a  strong  grower.  Flowers  two  to  ten,  pure  white,  trum- 
pet-shaped, six  to  nine  inches  long,  and  fragrant.  Blooms 
in  July.     From  China  and  Japan, 

This  is  one  of  the  best  known  trumpet-shaped  species. 
The  following  are  its  chief  varieties  : 


Eximium,  orWilsoni. — A  variety  producing  larger 
and  longer  flowers  than  the  old  type. 

Tahesima. — The  flowers  are  marked  outside  with 
a  purplish  tint. 

Albo-marginale. — The  leaves  of  this  variety  are 
bordered  with  a  wide  band  of  white. 

Madame  von  Sieiold. — A  large  flowering  sort. 
Harrisii  (" Bermuda  Easter  Lily"),  figure  69.— A 


LILIES,    THEIR   CULTIVATION". 


105 


variety  of  quite  recent  introduction.  Established  bulbs 
will  produce  fifty  or  more  flowers  on  a  stem,  and  it  blos- 
soms much  earlier  than  the  other  varieties.     Even  small 


Fig.   70.— FLORIBUNDA. 

offsets  from  the  bulb  will  bloom  the  first  season.  Plants 
are  dwarf  and  compact ;  flowers  larger  than  any  of  the 
others,  and  the  bulbs  will  bloom  two  or  three  times  during 


106 


THE   WINDOW   FLOWER   GARDEN". 


the  year,  if  kept  growing  in  pots  with  plenty  of  rich  soil. 
It  has  with  ns  done  so  more  than  once.  An  excellent 
variety  for  forcing,  both  in  the  window  and  greenhouse. 
Eloribunda,  figure  70. — This  Lily  has  been  largely 
sold  as  L.  Harrisii,  or  the  "Bermuda  Easter  Lily,"  but 
it  is  in  all  respects  inferior  to  that  as  a  pot  plant.  The 
true  L.  Harrisii  is  a  Japanese  Lily ;  floribunda  is  a 


Fig.  71.— LILIUM  SPECIOSUM. 

Bermuda  Lily,  not  much  better  than  the  common  L. 
longifiorum,  the  only  advantage  is  that  in  good  cultiva- 
tion it  will  produce  a  larger  number  of  flowers  on  a 
single  stalk. 

Ltlium  speciosum  (commonly  called  L.  lancifolium). 
— Two  to  four  feet  high,  robust  and  strong.  Flowers 
three  to  fifteen  in  number,  large  and  drooping  ;  color  (in 


LILIES,    THEIR   CULTIVATION. 


107 


the  type)  white,  shaded  with  rose  and  spotted  with  crim- 
son Native  of  Japan,  and  blooms  in  August  and  Sep- 
tember. This  Lily,  figure  71,  taken  with  all  its  varie- 
ties, is  probably  the  most  desirable  species  m  cultivation 
It  is  sure  to  thrive  in  any  situation,  and  its  beauty  will 
be  a  surprise  to  all  who  are  unacquainted  with  it. 

One  can  expect  excellent  success  with  it  in  pots, 
and  find  it  of  easy  culture,  especially  the  first  three 
named  varieties. 

Roseum.—White  and  pale  rose,  spotted  darker, 
very  fine,  and  easily  grown  in  pots. 

Rubrum.—Deey  rose,  spotted  darker.  These  two 
sorts  vary  greatly  in  color  on  different  soils,  and  are 
often  so  near  alike  that  it  is  difficult  to  distinguish 
them,  and  most  florists  and  bulb  merchants  sell  one 
for  the  other. 

Album.— A  pure  white  sort,  of  as  easy  culture  as 

the  above. 

Punctatum.—'?^  pink,  spotted, 

Purpuratum.— Very  dark. 

prcecox.  —White,  tinged  pink,  stronger  grower. 

Kratzeri.—  White,  with  greenish  stripes. 

Vestale.  —Purest  white,  quite  new. 

Roseum  verum.— Very  light  green  foliage. 

SchrymaJceri.—DaYk  crimson. 

Melpomeiie.—Deeip  blood-red,  with  white  border. 

Multiflorum.—  White,  but  little  if  any  different 
from  album. 

Atropurpureum. — Dark. 

Punctatum  corymbiflorum.—  Like  Punctatum, 
except  it  produces  many  more  flowers. 

Monstrosum-roseum.  —  Pale  rose,  spotted.  This 
variety  produces  larger,  often  flat  stems,  on  which 
are  borne  immense  clusters  of  blooms,  containing 
from  twenty  to  fifty  flowers.    It  is  truly  magnificent. 

Monstrosum-albnm.—Is  like  the  above,  except  it 


108  THE   WINDOW   FLOWER   GARDEN. 

is  pure  white  in  color.    These  two  lillies  will  be  sure 
to  give  great  satisfaction.     Their  large  clusters  of 
blooms  are  truly  grand. 
Wallacei,  figure  72. — One  to  three  feet  high;  flowers 


Fig.  72.— WALLACEI. 

erect,  orange  yellow,  spotted  black,  well  open  and  very 
beautiful.  Each  bulb  throws  up  from  three  to  four  flow- 
ering stems.  Native  of  Japan,  and  blooms  in  August. 
An  exceedingly  fine  Lily  allied  to  L.  Leichtlini,  easily 
grown  and  sure  to  please. 


LILY   OF  THE   VALLEY. 


109 


CHAPTER    XXX.V. 

LILY  OF  THE  VALLEY. 

ConvALLARIA,  name  altered  from  the  Latin  Lilium 
convallium.     Nat.  Ord.  Liliacece.     C.  Majalis  (see  fig. 


i£^1 

1     #  fife 

Fig.  73.— LILY   OF   THE   VALLEY. 


73)  is  a  plant  so  well-known  and  such  a  universal 
favorite,  that  little  need  be  said  by  way  of  descrip- 
tion, unless  we  add  that  of  Gerarde,  in  1659,  which  is 
as  follows  :  "  The  Lily  of  the  Valley  hath  many  leaves 
like  the  smallest   leaves  of  Water  Plantaine.     Among 


110  THE  WINDOW   FLOWER   GARDEN. 

which  riseth  up  a  naked  stalk,  half  a  foot  high,  garnished 
with  many  white  flowers,  like  bells,  with  blunt  and 
turned  edges,  of  a  strong  savour,  yet  being  pleasant 
enough,  which  being  past  there  comes  small  red  berries, 
much  like  the  berries  of  asparagus,  wherein  the  seed  is 
contained.  "  A  modern  writer  in  the  Treasury  of  Botany 
says  :  "  Without  poetical  or  fanciful  conventionalities, 
the  Lily  of  the  Valley  is  as  perfect  an  emblem  of  purity, 
modesty  and  humility,  as  the  floral  world  can  afford.  It 
may  seem  idle  to  observe  that  a  flower  of  this  description 
cannot  be  that  referred  to  in  the  Sermon  on  the  Mount, 
but  as  that  opinion  is  frequently  broached  in  popular 
works,  it  may  simply  be  observed  that  it  never  grows  in 
the  open  field,  and  that  there  is  nothing  in  its  array  to 
which  the  term  '  glory '  is  applicable.  Not  a  little  un- 
profitable commentary  might  have  been  spared,  if  the 
same  general  meaning  had  been  attached  to  the  term 
*  Lilies  of  the  Field,'  which  has  by  common  consent, 
been  ascribed  to  the  parallel  phrase  '  Fowls  of  the  Air/ 
while  the  passage  itself  would  have  gained  in  force  and 
dignity  by  being  kept  clear  from  botanical  disquisitions." 
The  flowers  of  the  Lily  of  the  Valley  are  used  during 
the  winter  months  in  great  quantities,  New  York  City 
alone  probably  using  a  million  spikes,  the  average  price 
is  about  five  cents  each,  so  that  for  this  flower  alone 
$50,000  is  annually  paid  by  the  bouquet-makers  to 
the  florist  ;  the  consumer,  no  doubt,  paying  one-third 
more.  A  florist  in  Philadelphia  makes  it  a  specialty  to 
have  them  in  bloom  all  the  year  round,  both  summer  and 
winter,  but  they  cost  him  a  good  price,  as  the  bulbs,  or 
rather  pips  or  clumps,  are  stored  in  ice-houses  through 
the  summer  and  are  dormant ;  these  are  taken  up  and 
picked  over,  the  good  ones  forced  in  forcing  houses, 
built  especially  for  this  purpose;  but  he  loses  so  many  by 
this  process  that  it  hardly  pays  him  for  the  trouble.  Still 
he  has  the  name  of  being  the  only  one  that  does  such  a 


LILY   OF  THE   VALLEY.  Ill 

thing.  The  Lily  of  the  Valley  is  nearly  all  imported 
from  Germany  and  France,  usually  in  single  crowns,  or 
as  we  term  them  "  pips  ;"  the  best  are  from  Germany,  as 
they  do  much  better,  making  longer  spikes  of  flowers, 
and  open  more  evenly. 

For  those  wishing  to  plant  a  bed  of  them  in  their  back 
yard,  it  is  best  to  get  the  clumps  and  plant  them  out. 
They  do  well  in  the  garden,  and  may  be  put  under  the 
shade  of  trees  ;  but  wherever  placed,  the  roots  should 
not  be  disturbed  for  several  years,  if  at  all,  as  many 
clumps  will  not  otherwise  bloom.  They  are  propagated 
by  division  of  these  roots.  The  back  part  of  the  yard, 
where  the  sun  does  not  strike  them  too  quickly,  is  an 
especial  good  spot  for  them. 

For  window  culture  it  is  best  to  pot  from  5  to  6  pips 
in  a  six-inch  pot,  use  light  rich  soil,  and  bury  pot  and 
all    outdoors  in  the  garden  border,  cover    lightly  with 
straw,  leaves  or  litter  of  any  kind,  so  that  you  can  get  at 
them  during  the  winter  when  the  ground  is  frozen.  Let 
them  stay  out  until  they  are  well  frozen  and  then  take 
them  in  as  you  need  them,  pot  after  pot.     When  you  put 
them  in  the  window  do  not  at  once  set  them  in  the  sun- 
light, but  expose  to  it  gradually.     Cover  the  surface  of 
the  soil  with  an  inch  deep  of  common  sphagnum  moss, 
such  as  florists  use  to  fill  wire  frames,  see  that  the  pips 
are  well  covered  with  this,  and  also  see  that  they  are 
kept  well  watered.     This  moss  should  never  be  allowed  to 
get  dry.     If  forced  too  quickly,  the  flowers  will  not  be  as 
fine,  as   they   will   be,  when   given   gentle   and   regular 
heat,  and  fewer  will  be  lost  by  not  blooming.     When 
forcing  them  on  a  flue  or  hot  water  pipes,  it  is  best  to  set 
the  pots  in  a  box  of  sphagnum  moss,  and  keep  it  well 
watered.    This  prevents  the  pips  from  drying  out.    They 
bloom  before  they  have  taken  root,  and  must  be  well 
watered  and  sprinkled.     I  have  had  excellent  success  in 
this  way  and  raise  them  for  the  holidays  in  large  numbers. 


112 


THE   WINDOW   FLOWER   GARDEN. 


CHAPTER    XXXVI. 

THE  AQUARIUM. 

An  aquarium  well  filled  and  stocked  with  plants,  fish, 
etc.,  is  one  of  the  finest  ornaments  one  can  have  in  the 


'.  74.— THE  AQUAKIUM. 

room.  There  are  many  varieties,  styles,  designs  and  pat- 
terns made  now,  but  for  a  small  room  the  Table  Aquar- 
ium, shown  in  figure  74,  to  my  taste  is  as  neat  an  orna- 


THE  AQUARIUM.  113 

ment  as  one  can  have,  being  of  cut  glass,  with  an  iron 
frame  for  holding  the  glass  globe. 

Another  neat  and  not  very  costly  ornament,  is  the 
small  iron  flower  stand,  fig.  75,  which  by  setting  an  or- 
dinary hanging  glass  fish  globe  on  the  top  cup,  and  three 
pot  plants  on  the  other  three  cups,  makes  quite  an  unique 
and  ornamental  design  for  the  parlor  table. 


Fig.  75.— IRON   FLOWER  STAND. 

How  to  Fill  the  Aquakicjm, — First  cover  the  bottom 
of  the  tank  or  globe  to  the  depth  of  one-half  inch  with 
pure,  fine,  well-washed  sand,  on  top  of  which  put  an 
equal  quantity  of  fine  gravel  ;  over  this  gravel  sprinkle 
small  ornamental  stones,  shells,  coral,  etc.  Every  thing 
put  into  the  tank  must  be  thoroughly  washed.  Next, 
put  in  position  an  ornamental  center-piece  of  coral, 
stone,  or  anything  out  of  which  you  can  construct  an 
arch,  through  which  the  fish  can  readily  swim ;  now  fill 


114  THE   WINDOW   FLOWER   GARDEN". 

the  tank  about  one- third  full  with  pure  cold  water. 
Never  put  in  ornaments  of  any  kind  that  have  been 
painted,  as  the  water  will  cause  the  paint  to  chip  off,  and 
the  fish  are  always  sure  to  get  the  small  particles  and 
often  die  from  them. 

Plants. — The  best  aquatic  plant  for  aerating  the  water 
in  the  aquarium  is  Anacharis  Canadensis,  found  grow- 
ing under  water  on  the  bottom  of  nearly  all  sluggish 
streams  and  ponds.  The  Valisneria  spiralis  (Eel-grass), 
is  the  next  best,  after  which  come  the  Myriophyllum 
spicatum  and  the  Myriophyllum  verticillatum.  There  is 
a  species  of  Conferva  found  in  rapid  streams,  attached 
to  stones,  that  is  an  excellent  aerater,  valuable  especially 
during  the  winter,  when  other  plants  do  not  flourish.  If 
you  get  the  Anacharis,  remove  all  decayed  stems  and 
leaves,  wash  clean,  and  arrange  in  bunches  of  ten  to  fif- 
teen. Make  a  hole  in  the  sand,  insert  the  butt  ends  of 
the  plants,  and  secure  in  this  position  by  pressing  small 
stones  about  them.  Insert  in  this  way  about  six  or  eight 
bunches,  and  be  careful  to  make  them  secure  at  the 
bottom*.  Boots  are  not  necessary,  as  the  cuttings  will 
soon  send  out  fine  white  rootlets.  Now  you  are  ready  to 
fill  up  the  tank  with  water  to  an  inch  and  a  half  of  the 
top.  Wait  two  or  three  days  before  introducing  the  fish, 
that  the  plants  may  have  time  to  commence  growing. 

The  Fish. — Almost  any  small  species  of  fish  may 
thrive  in  the  aquarium,  but  we  think  the  best  for  the 
purpose  are  the  Red-bellied  Minnows  and  Sticklebacks, 
found  in  small  streams  of  fresh  water.  Select  small  fish; 
from  four  to  eight  for  a  tank  holding  from  eight  to 
twelve  gallons.  Such  a  tank  will  support  four  small 
ones  to  one  larger.  Introduce  also  ten  to  twelve  water 
snails.  The  Lymnoe  are  the  best  ;  yet  the  Planorhis  and 
the  Physa  are  interesting.  Better,  however,  are  a  few 
of  every  kind  you  can  find  in  the  fresh  water  ponds  and 
stagnant    pools   in   your   vicinity.     They  feed   on   the 


THE   AQUARIUM.  115 

softer  parts  of  aquatic  plants,  and  do  not  exhaust  the 
oxygen  mixed  with  the  water,  as  they  are  air-breathing, 
and  have  to  come  to  the  surface  to  take  in  a  supply  of 
air,  to  be  used  while  they  go  about  cleansing  the  plants 
and  the  glass  of  the  tank  with  their  curiously  contrived 
jaws. 

Food. — The  best  food  for  fish  is  small  angle  worms 
and  flies  in  summer,  and  fine  bits  of  fresh,  raw  meat  in 
winter.  Never  give  the  fish  more  than  they  can  eat  at 
onetime,  for  whatever  is  left  will  injure  the  water. 

Position — The  best  place  for  the  Aquarium  is  where 
it  will  be  exposed  to  the  sun  at  least  one  hour  each  day, 
in  order  that  the  plants  may  exhale  oxygen,  which  can 
only  take  place  under  stimulus  of  light.  Too  much 
light,  however,  is  to  be  avoided,  as  the  fish  do  not  thrive 
when  exposed  to  the  sun,  and  the  glass  will  be  soiled  by 
the  conferva,  a  green  vegetable  matter,  which  sticks  to 
the  glass.  In  summer  an  outdoor  position  is  the  best, 
if  there  be  sufficient  shade.  It  is  well  to  cover  the 
Aquarium,  both  for  the  shade  and  to  keep  the  fish  from 
leaping  out  of  the  tank,  placing  small  blocks  of  wood 
underneath  to  allow  the  air  to  pass  under;  if  in  a  shady 
place  cover  with  a  wire  screen. 

Cleaning  the  Aquarium. — If  well  balanced  with 
plants,  fish  and  shells,  the  water  will  remain  sweet  for  an 
indefinite  time.  We  have  known  an  aquarium  that  has 
been  m  service  for  the  last  twelve  years,  and  which  does 
not  require  a  change  of  water  oftener  than  once  or  twice 
a  year,  and  then  only  to  renew  the  sand,  which  becomes 
filled  with  excrementitious  matter. 

Benefits. — A  well  regulated  aquarium  is  a  beautiful 
ornament  for  the  home,  and  one  which  is  a  perpetual 
source  of  amusement  and  instruction.  It  has  the  pecu- 
liar advantage  of  making  us  acquainted  with  forms  and 
habits  of  animated  existence,  which  are  commonly  hid 
from  our  inspection.     Thus  its  influence  upon  the  family 


116  THE   WINDOW   FLOWER   GARDEN. 

circle  is  wholesome  and  elevating,  tending  to  awaken  in 
all  the  members,  both  young  and  old,  an  increased  love 
for  the  contemplation  of  the  wondrous  skill  and  wisdom 
of  the  great  Creator. 

Amphibious  Animals. — If  lizards,  frogs,  and  other 
amphibious  animals  are  introduced,  they  should  be  pro- 
vided with  some  place  above  the  water  to  climb  upon. 
The  rocks  may  be  built  above  the  water,  or  a  piece  of  flat 
cork  may  be  allowed  to  float  upon  it,  where  the  animals 
will  climb,  and  produce  no  small  amount  of  amusement 
and  instruction. 

Salt  Water  Aquaria  are  even  more  interesting  than 
those  containing  fresh  water,  as  they  allow  us  to  observe 
the  habits  of  animals  which  are  peculiar  to  sea  water, 
and  are  very  seldom  seen.  These  aquaria  are  very  diffi- 
cult to  establish  by  those  who  live  at  a  distance  from  the 
seaside,  and  unless  the  balance  between  vegetable  and 
animal  life  is  properly  maintained,  the  whole  suddenly 
collapses  and  must  be  started  anew.  The  plant  mainly 
relied  upon  to  aerate  salt  water  is  the  dark  green  Viva, 
so  common  on  the  seashore,  and  by  fishermen  called 
"  oyster  green"  and  "Sea  Lettuce." 


CHAPTER    XXXVII. 

IMPLEMENTS. 


Use  will  be  found  for  one  or  another  of  the  implements 
mentioned  in  this  Chapter.  The  most  complete  and 
cheapest  set  of  tools  for  ladies  and  children  is  that  shown 
in  fig.  76.  It  consists  of  a  spade,  fork,  rake,  and  hoe,  all 
made  of  the  best  steel,  handsomely  finished,  and  intend- 
ed for  service,  and  not  toys.  The  "Excelsior  Weeder," 
fig.  77,  is  also  much  used  in  the  conservatory  for  loosen- 
ing the  soil  in  boxes,  or  in  the  garden  in  the  summer  for 


IMPLEMENTS. 


117 


weeding  among  small  plants ;  it  is  shaped  like  a  hand 
and  prevents  one  from  soiling  the  hands. 

The  Trowel,  fig.  78,  is  much  used  in  room  culture  as 
well  as  in  the  conservatory,  in  filling  hanging  baskets, 
plant  stands,,  etc. ;  they  are  also  required  for  use  in  the 
garden.     Trowels  are  made  from  6  inches  long  upwards. 


Fig.  78.— TROWEL. 


Fig.  79.— spade. 


The  Spade,  fig.  79,  is  much  used  by  those  having  mauy 
plants,  and  is  required  in  the  garden  for  digging  up  sods 
or  soil,  and  spading  the  borders.  The  Shovel,  fig.  80,  is 
also  needed  for  shovelling  up  the  soil,  in  sifting,  or  for 
throwing  garden  rubbish  into  the  wheelbarrow.  Those 
having  only  a  few  plants  will  find  in  the  garden  set,  fig. 
76,  all  they  will  require. 


118  THE   WINDOW   FLOWER    GARDEN. 

In  addition  to  tools  mentioned  in  other  parts  of  this 
book,  and  those  just  named,  there  are  but  a  few  more 
which  are  used  by  those  having  a  large  or  small  garden, 
but  as  this  book  does  not  treat  upon  that  part  of  floricul- 
ture, it  is  not  necessary  to  mention  them. 


CHAPTER    XXXVIII. 


THE  WINDOW  GARDEN   OUT-DOORS. 

A  few  hints  may  not  come  amiss  here  for  outside 
window  gardening.  We  will  first  consider  watering. 
When  pots  are  exposed  directly  to  the  sun,  and  also  to 
the  wind,  the  soil  in  them  will  naturally  dry  very 
quickly,  and  they  may  require  watering  very  often.  Give 
them  plenty  of  water,  and  if  they  are  not  planted  in  the 
window  box,  use  the  precaution  to  pack  moss  around 
them.  Never  shade  them  from  the  sun,  as  it  will  not  in- 
jure them  if  they  are  well  watered.  Some  may  not  have 
a  yard  where  the  winter  flowering  plants  can  be  plunged, 
as  described  in  Chapter  XVIII.  In  that  case,  place  those 
desired  for  the  winter  between  those  now  out  of  doors  on 
the  shelf,  and  allow  every  other  one  to  bloom,  while  every 
alternate  one  is  prevented  from  blooming.  This  done, 
and  there  will  be  plenty  of  flowers  all  summer,  and  also 
a  supply  for  the  room  m  winter. 

Nearly  all  the  remarks  given  for  the  treatment  of 
plants  in-doors  hold  good  for  their  treatment  when 
placed  outside.  Of  course,  we  need  no  heating — it  is 
summer,  and  the  sun  does  that  for  the  plants  ;  nor  is 
airing  needed,  as  the  plants  are  out-doors  both  day  and 
night.  No  danger  of  frost  need  be  feared.  There  will  be 
needed  the  same  soil  and  fertilizers  as  are  required  in-doors, 
the  same  care  in  watering,  and  especially  in  syringing, 


DESIGNS   MADE   OF   DRIED   FLOWERS,    ETC.  119 

which  must  be  done  very  often,  as  the  dust  from  the 
street  will  cover  them.  Dust  prevents  them  from 
growing — no  plant  covered  with  dust  or  dirt  will  be 
in  a  healthy  state.  Watering  will  be  required,  it  may 
be,  once,  twice,  or  even  four  times  a  day,  so  that  the 
plants  may  never  get  dry  and  rusty  looking,  as  plants  in 
this  condition  at  once  spoil  the  appearance  of  the  win- 
dow. If  plants  once  get  into  this  condition,  it  takes 
weeks  for  them  to  recover.  Smoking  will  be  needed, 
as  insects  will  also  trouble  plants  when  out-doors.  Such 
other  treatment  should  be  given  as  judgment  shows  that 
they  need.  For  drooping  flowering  plants,  the  outside 
window  of  course  is  the  only  place,  unless  pot  brackets 
are  used,  which  can  be  so  fastened  that  they  will  serve 
for  both  summer  and  winter,  by  swinging  them  in  or  out. 


CHAPTEE    XXXIX. 

DESIGNS  MADE  OF  DRIED  EVERLASTING  FLOWERS,  ETC. 

Some  of  the  readers  of  this  book  may  wish  to  decorate 
their  rooms  with  flowers,  but  do  not  care  to  have  the 
trouble  of  attending  to  them.  To  those  I  would  recom- 
mend the  designs  made  of  dried  Natural  Flowers, 
Grasses,  and  Mosses.  These  designs  will  retain  their 
shape  and  beauty  for  years,  and  need  only  to  be  occasion- 
ally shaken  to  remove  the  dust  that  may  settle  on  them. 

Fig.  81  is  a  Hanging-Basket  filled  with  dried  Everlast- 
ing Flowers  and  Grasses,  in  their  natural  colors.  Some 
are  colored,  and  they  are  the  most  elegant  article  of  the 
kind  ever  seen  in  this  country.  They  are  filled  with  such 
flowers  as  Acrocliniums,  Ammobiums,  Helichrysums, 
etc.,  which  are  tastefully  arranged  with  various  Grasses. 


120 


THE  WINDOW   FLOWER    GARDEN. 


Such  a  basket  makes  an  elegant  parlor  ornament,  and  is 
very  durable.  The  ornamental  Grass  Bouquets,  fig.  82, 
are  composed  of  Natural  Grasses,  dyed  in  various  colors, 


Fig.  81. — HANGING  BASKET  WITH  DRIED  FLOWERS. 

and  very  beautifully  arranged.  The  colors  are  particu- 
larly bright  and  durable,  and  the  Bouquets  form  desir- 
able ornaments  for  filling  vases  in  the  parlor  or  sitting- 
room,  and  retain  their  shape  and  beauty  for  several  years. 
Fig.  83  shows  one  of  the  Bouquets  made  of  Everlasting 


DESIGNS   MADE   OF  DRIED   FLOWERS,    ETC.  121 


Fig.  82. — GRASS  BOUQUET.  Fig.  83.— BOUQUET  OP  DRIED  FLOWERS. 

Flowers  and  Grasses.     It  is  just  as  durable  as  the  Grass 
Bouquets,  and  is  preferred  by  some. 


**&M 


Fig.  84.— WALL  POCKET.  Fig.  85.— DESIGN  WITH  FERNS. 

The  Wall-pocket  Basket,  fig.  84,  filled  with   Grasses, 
Ferns,  and  Flowers,  makes  a  very  neat  ornament  to  hang 


122  THE    WINDOW   FLO  WEE    GARDEN". 

on  the  wall  between  or  underneath  picture-frames,  or  to 
stand  on  the  mantel-piece. 

Fig.  85  is  also  a  very  neat  design  of  this  class.  It  is 
made  of  pressed  Ferns,  Grasses,  and  Flowers,  with  a 
beautifully  colored  Butterfly  made  of  paper.  This  is 
arranged  on  card-board,  with  a  piece  of  cork  to  imitate  a 
shell  or  log,  and  the  Grasses  and  Ferns  glued  on  the  back 
of  the  cork  as  if  they  were  growing  behind  the  log.  It 
can  be  easily  framed  as  a  picture,  with  or  without  glass. 


Fig.  86.— STRAW  BASKET  WITH  FLOWERS  AND  GRASSES. 

Fig.  86  shows  the  latest  style  of  filling  Straw  Baskets 
with  these  dried  Flowers  and  Grasses,  and  has  been  much 
admired  by  all  who  have  seen  it.  All  Jardinieres,  such 
as  those  in  figs.  88,  89,  90,  will  fill  beautifully  in  this  style. 

The  Swiss  Moss  Baskets,  fig.  87,  filled  with  Flowers 
and  Grasses,  are  very  neat  for  setting  on  the  table  or 
mantel-piece.     Any  kind  of  basket  can  be  filled  with 


DESIGNS   MADE   OF   DRIED    FLOWERS,    ETC. 


123 


these  dried  Flowers  and  Grasses,  as  the  taste  may  sug- 
gest.    The  same  materials  can  also  be  made  into  wreaths, 


Fig.  87.— swiss  moss  basket. 


crosses,  anchors,  stars,  etc.,  for  decorating  the  room, 
halls,  churches,  etc.,  for  Christmas,  and  after  using  them 
they  can  be  packed  away,  where  mice  and  dust  can  not 
reach  them,  for  next  year's  use. 

The  following  Jardinieres  can  also  be  easily  employed  for 
this  purpose  ;  they  can  likewise  be  used  to  grow  Hyacinths 


Fig.  89.— OVAL  JARDINIERE. 


-"  '^iSSSSnilBl 


Fig.  88.— WICKER-WORK  JARDINIERE.  Fig.  90.— SQUARE   JARDINIERE. 

in,  as  they  are  provided  with  zinc  pans.  They  make  very 
beautiful  ornaments  when  the  bulbs  are  in  flower,  and 
they  will  do  well  in  them,  as  Hyacinths  like  a  good  share 
of  water.     These  can  all  be  bought  of  any  florist. 


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